TravelPro

KUDOS: Alaska Airlines

2012-02-10T07:35:00.000-08:00

In the 17 years I lived away from the Pacific Northwest, I rarely had the opportunity to fly Alaska Airlines. I’d forgotten how much I was missing.

Make no mistake: Alaska has, in part, succumbed to the pressures facing all players in the airline industry: high fuel prices and fierce price competition are just two of those factors. But, unlike other carriers I have flown recently, Alaska still handles things with aplomb.

On my recent flight from SEA to DCA, I experienced many examples of Alaska’s excellent customer service.

The first aircraft we boarded had problems with the door seal. While the flight crew wasn’t specific, they didn’t need to be. My fellow passengers and I clearly understood that a door seal is not something you want to fail at 35,000 feet. If a delay was in our future, so be it. It beat the alternative.

But the airline had plans to deal with this contingency and, more importantly, the equipment necessary to make that plan a reality. (To quote Hannibal Smith of The A Team, “I LOVE it when a plan comes together!”) As soon as the crew realized it was not going to be a quick fix, they transferred us to another aircraft and off we went.

Certainly, our departure was delayed - by about an hour, as it turned out - but it could have been much longer if the airline a) hadn’t had Alaska’s laser focus on customer service, and/or b) didn’t have an available 737-800 just two gates down the concourse.

Once in the air, the flight crew did what they could to make up the delay (and make the best use of the jet stream that flows to the east) while the cabin crew took care of our slightly ruffled feathers. Unlike flight attendants at so many carriers these days, Alaska’s actually talk with the passengers, and not just, “Do you want something from the beverage cart?” A refreshing change from the norm.

Perhaps my positive mood is due, in part, to those flight attendants who bought me two glasses of wine. I was in an easy-going frame of mind and not raising any kind of fuss; they just seemed to be in a generous mood.

No announcement was made that drinks would be free because of the delay; they just were. At least mine were.

When I asked why they’d been so accommodating, they really had no explanation. But that’s OK. I’ll take it. And I’ll be taking Alaska much more in the future.

Seattle Vacations

Alaska Airlines first U.S. carrier to join Emirates’ mileage program

2012-01-25T20:17:00.000-08:00

Alaska Airlines has become the first U.S. airline to partner with Emirates' Skywards program, and the airline is offering double Alaska Mileage Plan™ miles for qualifying Emirates flights.

An Emirates spokesperson tells TravelPro the partnership means "Members of Alaska’s Mileage Plan™ can accrue miles to use towards Emirates flights; likewise, Emirates Skywards members can also accrue miles across the Alaska Airlines network."

Alaska Airlines' release on the partnership said: “With a fleet of 160 aircraft, Emirates currently flies to over 100 destinations in 66 countries around the world, and their network continues to grow. Beginning March 1, 2012, they're adding a nonstop flight between Seattle and Dubai. (see previous TravelPro post)

In celebration of our new partnership, you can earn Double Mileage Plan™ Miles on qualifying Emirates flights.

To earn Double Miles, simply register your Mileage Plan™ number below prior to your first qualifying flight, and travel between March 1, 2012, and May 31, 2012.”

If you're an Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan™ member, register here for the promotion.

While Mileage Plan™ members will be able to earn miles for Emirates' flights starting immediately, they won't be able to use Mileage Plan™ miles for flights on Emirates until later in 2012. Emirates first flight from Seattle departs March 1.

Emirates' other Skywards partners include Japan Airlines, Jet Airways (India), Kingfisher Airlines (India), Korean Air, and South African Airways.

Safe travels!

Seattle Vacations

UPDATE: HONOLULU - Hawaii Prince Hotel

2012-01-18T16:43:00.000-08:00

The Hawaii Prince Hotel reports that a sorely-needed $5 million renovation has been completed.

After I visited the Hawaii Prince Hotel on O'ahu in February 2011, I noted in my blog post that the hotel was in dire need of an update.

Now, I'm told, that update is complete.

A dispatch from the hotel's P-R firm says the 521 guest rooms have been updated "with a new softness ... that reflect[s] an island sense of place in tune with the contemporary architecture of the building. In addition, the hotel restor[ed] its signature 25-foot tall waterfall fronting Ala Moana Boulevard."

The firm also provided these photos of the newly-redecorated rooms.

King Room at the Hawaii Prince

Living Room, Prince Suite

Candidly, the design scheme reflected in these new photos is not very different from the previous design.

Not that that's a bad thing.

The previous style was not the problem; it was the state of disrepair that I criticized. Now, with the refresh complete, that should no longer be an issue.

With the excellent service I experienced, as well as the great proximity to Waikiki, I'm very much looking forward to visiting the Hawaii Prince again.

If you get there before I do, please let me know what you find and I'll post it here.

Aloha!

Photos courtesy The Hawaii Prince Hotel

Asleep at the Switch?

2012-01-18T13:15:00.000-08:00

Sometimes, the oddest juxtapositions just happen. Other times, you have to wonder.

Can we conclude that advertising and editorial are kept completely separate at the Belfast Telegraph?

Be safe, not sorry.

2012-01-10T13:27:00.000-08:00

When I saw this story about a woman who claims she was sexually assaulted by a man who was mistakenly given a key to her hotel room, the first thought I had was, "Why wasn't this woman using the deadbolt on her door?"

At the risk of sounding sexist, I'll say it: women traveling alone are at greater risk than men and need to take extra care. I've said it to my wife, my sister, my daughter, friends, and now to you. BE CAREFUL.

Common sense is usually your greatest asset, hopefully accompanied by your personal radar. But some other tips might help, too.

DON'T BROADCAST THAT YOU'RE TRAVELING ALONE unless you want to be flirted with, hit on, followed, or worse. If you want to strike up a conversation with that guy at the bar, it's your call. Maybe he'll just offer to buy you a drink, or maybe more.

One tip I've suggested to women traveling alone is to go to the bar and order two drinks to take back to your room. That way, you're subtly communications that there may be someone else traveling with you. Worst case scenario, you'll have two drinks instead of one.

DON'T PROP YOUR HOTEL DOOR OPEN. Whenever I travel, I'm amazed by the number of people who use the deadbolt to prop the door to their room open. DO NOT DO THAT! If you need fresh air (and how "fresh" is the air in the hallway or parking lot anyway), open a window.

LOCK YOUR DOOR! Use the deadbolt as soon as you close the hotel door behind you. Like it or not, it happens: hotels occasionally give a key to the wrong people. I've been on both sides of that transaction: I've walked in on people and they've tried to walk in on me. In the latter case, the deadbolt communicated pretty quickly that the room was already occupied.

If you have any concerns about anything at all suspicious, call the hotel front desk or security immediately. They're there to help.

Safe travels!

United Airlines' Economy Plus® Subscription - Deal or No Deal?

2012-01-05T14:06:00.000-08:00

When I received the e-mail below inviting me to purchase a year's subscription to United Airlines' Economy Plus®, I was skeptical. A closer look convinced me...
that I had good reason to be.

The opening line reads, "Purchase now and lock in next year’s extra legroom at this year’s price." United Airlines appeared to be offering me a year's worth of Economy Plus® seating for $425 (although the price went up to $499 as of Jan. 6).

I thought about this offer for several days, then looked into it more closely while making flight arrangements for a cross-country trip I'll be taking next month.

I went to the airline's web site and selected my flights, choosing to purchase a seat in the main cabin as I usually do.

After I had selected my flights, I was presented the option of upgrading to Economy Plus®. For the four legs of this round-trip, upgrading to Economy Plus® would have cost a little more than $200. "At this rate," I reasoned, "I could pay for the subscription in as few as two trips; more than that, and I'm money ahead."

I was really tempted.

So I went to the United web site and read the "Terms and Conditions." I was pleased to learn the Economy Plus® subscription would also cover one traveling companion who was traveling on the same itinerary as me. An added benefit.

However, about half-way through the first bullet point, I came to the critical caveat: Seating in Economy Plus® is not guaranteed, but may be requested and confirmed any time prior to the flight.

That triggered my "a-ha" moment. Thinking back to the booking process I realized that, unlike choosing First or Business class at the beginning of the process, you don't have the option of choosing Economy Plus® going in. Economy Plus® seats are offered on a "space-available" basis.

In my case, all four of my flights had Economy Plus® seats available, but that's certainly not going to be the case all the time. The result is that it could take considerably more that eight flights to make an Economy Plus® subscription pay for itself.

Depending on where and how much you fly, and how far in advance you make your travel plans, it might make sense to take advantage of this annual subscription. But calculate carefully, lest you find yourself holding a subscription for something you're not able to use.

Seattle Vacations

Seattle to Dubai Non-Stops Start Mar. 1

2011-12-26T18:39:00.000-08:00

Emirates Airlines will be starting daily non-stop service between Seattle's Sea-Tac airport (SEA) and Dubai, U.A.E. (DXB) on March 1, 2012.

The 14 hour, 30 minute flights aboard a Boeing 777-300ER (extended range) will depart at 5:10 p.m. from Seattle and arrive in Dubai as 7:40 p.m. the following day. Thanks to headwinds, return flights will take 15 hours, 20 minutes. They will leave Dubai at 9:50 a.m., and will arrive in Seattle at 1:10 p.m.

As of this writing, an economy round-trip ticket (called a "return" ticket in the European tradition) can be booked for a shade under US$1,200 depending on travel dates. Business class, which many of us deem indispensable for a flight of this duration, is slightly more than US$7,000. First class is more than US$13,000.

Emirates joined forces with Seattle-based Alaska Airlines' Mileage Plan™ as of January 19,(see TravelPro post). While Alaska Mileage Plan™ members can start earning miles immediately, Alaska Airlines says it will be "late 2012" before it will be possible to reduce those fares or fly free using accrued Alaska Mileage Plan™ miles.

U.S. residents do not need to arrange for a visa in advance; however, residents of many other countries (including Canada) do. Emirates Airlines thoughtfully provides a web page with visa and passport information and offers to assist travelers in obtaining their visa when necessary.

More details to follow as they become available.

Seattle Vacations

SEATTLE: Cedarbrook Lodge - An Oasis of Civility

2011-12-20T11:54:00.000-08:00

After a grueling day of moving (what other kind is there?) and not wanting to sleep among stacks of boxes at our new home, my wife and I chose to reward ourselves with room service and a night at the nearby Cedarbrook Lodge.

Seattle Vacations

We’d eaten at the Copperleaf Restaurant in the Lodge several times and had been impressed, both with the food and service in the restaurant and by the beautiful property itself, so we decided to look into the cost of a room.

We were pleasantly surprised that the Cedarbrook Lodge is very competitively priced. And because a day lifting boxes full of our prized possessions had left us tired and sore, the oversized soaking tub clinched it for us.

This beautiful property was built in 2002 as Washington Mutual’s conference center. It became a hotel following WaMu’s 2008 acquisition by JPMorganChase. A desk clerk told us the Chase folks, being East Coast types, decided they had no interest in keeping such a property so far away, so it was reincarnated as a hotel as September 2009.

And I’m ecstatic!

Our guest room, a Deluxe Queen, was not particularly large at 276 square feet, but was very well laid out. Ten-foot ceilings made the room feel more spacious. In addition to the usual retinue of amenities, rooms have very large desks that provide plenty of space for working (if you’re so inclined). The queen bed in our room was flanked by a chair and ottoman that made for more comfortable TV watching than sitting up in bed.

Bathrooms all have oversized soaking tubs that were so exquisite my wife is already talking about adding one to our new home. (Despite the favorable room rate, our stay may turn out to be quite expensive after all!) Amenities are by Green from Natüra, a line of soaps and shampoos I first encountered at the Hotel Avalon in Portland. They’re designed to minimize the impact on the environment, including the inevitable waste caused by the short-term, single-use nature of hotel soaps.

Because we were too tired to change into nicer clothes and trundle to the restaurant, we had room service bring dinner to us. We shared a Market Greens salad, Alaskan Black Cod fish & chips, and fromage blanc for dessert, along with some well-deserved Pinot Gris. All items were well prepared and delivered quickly.

Those who are inclined to wander from their rooms have a variety of options. The bar is equipped with a pool table, there is a fitness center, and the grounds themselves have numerous walking paths. Even if the weather isn’t the best for leaving the building, the hotel has generous common areas called “Living Rooms.” All offer light snacks 24/7. Many include fireplaces and are wonderful for sitting and talking, reading a book or surfing the ‘net, or just drinking in the mountain lodge atmosphere.

A continental breakfast is included each morning. Smoked Pacific Northwest salmon augmented offerings of the typical continental breakfast items. What an unexpected delight!

Staff was uniformly wonderful: professional, courteous, engaging, making us feel like welcome guests instead of “paying customers.”

As a bonus, it’s close to SeaTac airport. Businesspeople who tire of the typical airport hotel (and who doesn’t?) would be doing themselves a favor to look into this oasis of civility.

Photos Credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-sized images

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

2011-12-15T09:32:00.000-08:00

When I logged on to my e-mail this morning, I received an invitation to enter a sweepstakes to win 150,000 airline miles from Alaska Airlines and its partner, American Airlines. When I tried to enter the sweepstakes less than three hours later, I got a message saying the sweepstakes had ended.

The time stamp on this e-mail was 6:25 a.m. PST this morning:

At 9:10 a.m., I had a few minutes so I thought I'd enter. What the heck, right? Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Imagine my surprise when I got this message less than three hours after the e-mail was sent.

It is any wonder that American is in bankruptcy? I sincerely hope Alaska doesn't follow suit.

Click on images to view larger size.

PORTLAND, OR: Portland Airport Hampton Inn

2011-12-14T15:29:00.000-08:00

I often joke that my idea of roughing it is staying at a Hampton Inn between Hiltons. My recent stay at the Hampton Inn at Portland’s airport wasn’t roughing it at all.

I recently spent a night at this Hampton Inn while attending a meeting at the hotel next door and found it to be a generally delightful experience.

The desk clerk who checked me in was very pleasant and efficient. She’d noted the preferences in my HiltonHHonors profile and placed me in a room on the top floor.

However, walking through the halls - first to the elevator then from the elevator to my room - I felt a knot growing in my stomach. The halls seemed a bit worn and dingy, and I worried that my room would have the same character.

I needn’t have. The room had obviously been updated recently and was lovely, down to that freshly laundered duvet the placard in the elevator had boasted about.

The room included the usual amenities including flat-screen TV, free wireless Internet access, a work desk, a sitting area, a laptop desk (for using your laptop while sitting up in bed), iron and ironing board.

The bathroom amenities included something I’d not seen offered before in a hotel: earplugs. Perhaps this Hampton Inn includes these little sleep aids because of its location just south of the airport’s north runway. Missing, however, was the ubiquitous shower cap. But c’mon; when was the last time anyone under, say, age 70 actually used a shower cap as a shower cap?

Breakfast in the morning was a typical free breakfast: omelets, bacon, sausage, and other items on steam tables accompanied by fruit and yoghurt and, for the ambitious (or carb-addicted), a make-your-own waffle station. As an alternative, Hampton Inns also offer “grab-and-go” brownbag breakfasts – a nice option if you’re in a hurry.

The breakfast area and the lobby had obviously also been recently refurbished, so it appeared that the hallways – the only spot that was in any way sub-par – were left for last.

Because the hotel is situated just south of the airport’s north runway, rooms on the north end of the hotel actually have views of the approach end of Runway 28 Left (or the departure end of Runway 10 Right). Because I’m such a big aviation fan – and knowing that flights into PDX usually land to the west (approach end of 28L), I’d definitely have requested one of those rooms if I’d known about them before visiting. If you’re not a fan, there are plenty of rooms that don’t face the flight line.

All in all, I would recommend the Hampton Inn at PDX without hesitation.

PHOTO CREDIT: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-size image

SACRAMENTO: Hilton Arden West

2011-11-28T14:30:00.000-08:00

We've stayed at this particular property many times. It's about time I got around to blogging about it!

With family in and around Sacramento, we visit the area frequently. Over the last couple of years, this property has become our hotel of choice.

As I've stated elsewhere, I'm a fan of Hilton properties and as a HiltonHHonors Diamond member, we usually get some additional perks. Accordingly, the Hilton Sacramento Arden West is a great choice for us.

It's a 12-story hotel that is outside the city's downtown area. For our purposes, the location is a plus, as we don't need to be downtown or anywhere near the state capitol. Even for those who do, however, downtown is only a short drive away.

The rooms are consistently nice. Recently updated, they're furnished with all the things you'd expect. Flat-screen TV, desk, Internet access (wired and wireless), high-end amenities in the bathroom, coffee maker and, in many, sitting areas with sofa and coffee table.

There's an on-site restaurant, bar, a pool and workout facilities, a pay-as-you-go business center, banquet facilities, a small shop with toiletries and snacks, an executive lounge (which is usually closed during the holidays), and abundant free parking.

Front desk and bell staff are consistently great. They've come to recognize us as frequent guests and always take good care of us. On our most recent visit, for example, I asked for a room without an adjoining door. They had none available but the room next to ours was empty so the desk clerk put it "out of service" for the night. Of course, they couldn't have done that if the hotel was full but it speaks to the level of service they strive to provide.

Bar staff is usually very good as well. We've often enjoyed snacks and beverages at the bar rather than opting for a big meal at the end of a long day.

The weak spots at this hotel seem to be the restaurant and the kitchen. I've had more than one experience where service was inattentive, surly, or just plain slow.

During our most recent stay, a couple of incidents revealed the kitchen's shortcomings. On the night of our arrival, we opted for snacks in the bar before retiring. Though it wasn't particularly late - or especially busy - the kitchen had already run out of one of its "featured appetizers."

At breakfast the next morning, a party of 12 - whose members opted to order from the menu instead of partaking of the buffet - completely overwhelmed the kitchen and resulted in lengthy delays for everyone who didn't choose the buffet. To his credit, the restaurant manager made the rounds an apologized for the delay. And when the food finally arrived, it was hot and well-prepared.

All things considered, I strongly recommend the Hilton Sacramento Arden West when your travels take you to the capital of the Golden State.

ST. LOUIS – Embassy Suites Downtown - A nice, brand new property

2011-11-15T13:29:00.000-08:00

My recent stay at the Embassy Suites in downtown St. Louis showed how a company dedicated to historic preservation can re-purpose old buildings while simultaneously updating them to meet the needs of the 21st century.

St Louis Hotel Review
Traveling to St. Louis for a conference, I chose the Embassy Suites downtown at 6th and Washington for a couple of reasons. First and foremost, I’m a fan of Hilton properties. As a Hilton Honors Diamond Member, I receive some additional perks and usually a little special treatment (who doesn’t like that?). Second, the room rate was more favorable than the conference hotel just a block down the street, and all Embassy Suites include breakfast, which makes my comptroller just a little happier with my expense account.

Just opened in October, this particular Embassy Suites is in a historic building that previously housed a Dillard’s department store. Black-and-white photographs throughout the property hint at the building’s previous incarnation. Being brand new, everything is state of the art and in good repair.

The building’s previous life lends luxury to its current configuration. Guest suites feature 10-foot ceilings, which give rooms a very spacious feel. The ceiling in the fourth-floor lobby/bar/restaurant is easily twice that height and provides a very dramatic setting to enjoy breakfast, a glass of wine or cocktail at the nightly manager’s reception, or just to sit and work or relax.

Staff is young but uniformly professional and generally fairly polished. Valets readily opened doors, and offered assistance and advice. Front desk personnel were friendly and helpful, and dining room attendants were quick to refill beverages and to whisk away empty plates.

The included breakfast was, in a word, predictable. The steam table featured the ubiquitous watery scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, home fries, pancakes, juices, cereal, fruit, and yoghurt. The hotel also offers a station where guests can get made-to-order omelets, freshly-prepared fried eggs (and freshly-scrambled eggs, too, for the fussy like me), and biscuits and gravy.

I was there for three nights and breakfast offerings were identical all three mornings. Consistency is fine as far as it goes, but a little variety would be welcome. Mixing it up a little – offering French toast instead of pancakes, for example, or corned beef hash instead of one of the other breakfast meats - would be nice.

The Embassy Suites is a block away from the area’s light rail, which runs all the way from Lambert Field at the west end of the line into Illinois on the east end. It's also adjacent to the Conference Plaza, America’s Center, and the Edward Jones Dome.

The only “down” side is that Embassy Suites tend to attract a lot of families with kids, especially on the weekends. I shared the hotel with a large number of giggly girls who were in town for a cheer-leading competition. They were fine and well-behaved, but they were normal kids, which is to say energetic and vocal.

If you need to be in the area of the St. Louis Convention Center, I definitely recommend the Embassy Suites.

ST. LOUIS – Mosaic: Nice Restaurant Near the Convention Center

2011-11-15T13:14:00.000-08:00

Areas around cities’ convention centers can go two ways: either well-developed, or offering very little once you get out of your hotel (as is the wasteland around the Phoenix Convention Center). St. Louis strikes a decent middle ground, and one of the highlights of the area is Mosaic.

St Louis Vacations

I walked by Mosaic while headed for lunch at the nearby Dubliner Pub and was intrigued but my first impression was that Mosaic was a place I’d like to linger. Time was short at lunch, so I returned at the end of a busy day of meetings and conference sessions to enjoy a delightful dinner at the bar.

Mosaic bills itself as a “modern/fusion restaurant.” Emphasis is on the modern. The interior is dim and inviting, with house/trance music playing on the sound system at a reasonable, conversation-friendly volume.

Mosaic offers a variety of small plates, though the portions are more generous than traditional tapas. Dishes were artfully prepared and presented, and my bartender Kathy did an excellent job of explaining dishes, making recommendations, and ensuring her guests were enjoying their nibbles.

However, the word “fusion” in the restaurant’s “positioning statement” created an expectation that Mosaic failed to meet.

The food itself was excellent but at the same time, not particularly unique.

On the night I visited Mosaic, the chef’s soup sampler featured butternut squash soup with vanilla, tomato basil, and cream of cauliflower. Based on the items I enjoyed, they were likely quite well-prepared and delicious, but nothing you couldn’t find in a number of fine restaurants.

That was also true of the Trio of Cheese platter. It came with Sage Derby, Drunken Goat, and an Amish blue cheese. Again quite good but rather prosaic, as was the plate of cured meats.

That’s not meant as a negative, per se. The food was fresh, well-prepared, and tasty; it just wasn’t unique or surprising.

If you’re in the area of the St. Louis Convention Center and are looking for a nice place with good food, service, and energy, Mosaic will not disappoint. Just don’t expect it to push the culinary envelope.

UNITED AIRLINES: Can I Just Vent for a Minute?

2011-11-13T06:42:00.000-08:00

Once again – no, actually TWICE again -- United Airlines has demonstrated that it is utterly inept when it comes to customer service.

I’m not talking about monumental screw-ups, such as those that lead to the legendary “United Breaks Guitars.” (If you've never seen it, you must watch the video!) I’m talking about “misses” that touch the average traveler every day.

Right now, I’m sitting at DEN, waiting for a connecting flight to STL and have already been the victim of two rather dramatic misses.

United has begun offering a United MileagePlus Explorer Card. For an annual fee of $95, this card offers a free checked bag (for up to two people traveling together), miles for every dollar spent, two club passes per year and – important to me – priority boarding.

I carry the United Club Card. For an annual fee of about $375, I get miles for every dollar spent (sometimes more than one mile per dollar), access to United Clubs and U.S. Airways clubs, and do not pay foreign transaction fees. Notably, however, I do NOT get a free checked bag or priority boarding, even though my annual fee is almost $300 more than the Explorer Card (pictured at right).

Of course, I get club access which I consider valuable. But I can’t imagine another scenario in the retail world where spending more actually gets you less.

In this case, my position is that the Club Card should get all the other perks of the Explorer Card plus club access. What’s more, the rep at card issuer Chase Bank whom I called (because I couldn’t believe it when a United gate agent told me I was s.o.l.), agreed with me. “Spend more” SHOULD mean “Get more.”

The other United lapse involved Economy Plus. My company bought basic economy class passage but, as anyone who travels with a laptop knows, it’s almost impossible to even open the laptop, let alone get anything done in flight in what I lovingly call “steerage.”

So I paid $88 to upgrade to Economy Plus. In addition to a bit more laptop (and leg) room, I reasoned I would have also bought earlier boarding.

Wrong.

Because I chose an aisle seat, I was in group 4. The LAST group to board, behind First Class, United Platinum, Gold, Silver, Tin, Aluminum, and Zinc frequent flyer members, and those needing “special assistance,” including the elderly and those with rugrats.

Not that I begrudge them. But what I do begrudge is once again paying more for less. And in this case, the “less” is less room in the overhead bins. I have traveled to Europe without checking, and I sure as hell didn’t want to check a bag from Seattle to St. Louis. But being in group 4, there was a pretty fair chance the overhead space would be gone by the time I boarded and that I’d have to check.

Fortunately, I didn’t, but I can hear the United spin doctors now: “Sir, you had the option to pay another $44 for Priority Boarding.”

Give me a break.

I’m already paying considerably more each year for your credit card AND I spent more for a seat in Economy Plus. Asking me to pay even more at this point is like asking a customer who chose the more expensive wool blazer instead of polyester to pay extra for buttons.

They ought to come with the coat. Which actually reminds me of a similar experience.

Some years ago, I bought two suits at Men’s Wearhouse. The salesman irritated me from the beginning by talking to my wife as though she was the one buying the suit instead of talking directly to me, the business professional who was going to be wearing them and the one who needs to be happy with his purchase.

But the coup de grace was delivered at check-out when the cashier presented a bill for the alterations.

I had never bought a suit before that didn’t include the alterations, though I acknowledge I’d bought my other suits from places like Nordstrom, Nieman Marcus, and the now-defunct Bullock’s rather than a discounter, but that chapped my hide so badly that, upon delivery, I took advantage of their money-back guarantee, returned the suits, and have never shopped there again.

Why? Not because of what I consider the screw-up of the salesman treating me like a kid whose mother was buying him a suit but because, when I called the chain’s main office to report these incidents, NOBODY APOLOGIZED. They simply said it was their policy to charge for alterations (I’d figured that out on my own by that time, thanks), and, “Your experience with the salesperson was indeed unfortunate. We do hope you’ll give us another try; I’m sure we’ll meet your expectations next time.”

Surprise. There was – and will never be – a “next time” for Men’s Wearhouse. With the needs of business travel often dictating which airline I fly, I am sincerely sorry I won’t be able to say the same thing to United Airlines.

UPDATE: Accessing Airline Clubs Economically

2011-11-09T06:48:00.000-08:00

In late June, I wrote a post about ways to gain access to airline clubs more economically than simply buying an annual membership. In the short time since that post, the rules have changed.

In my previous post, I mentioned that many airline clubs sell "day passes" which grant access to one or more clubs on a given day. However, two clubs have moved away from "day passes" and have begun offering "one-time passes."

When United Red Carpet Clubs and Continental Airlines Presidents Clubs merged on October first, one of the things that changed was the elimination of "day passes." Both clubs previously offered such passes for $50 for the first person, which was especially attractive if your trip involved a lay-over at an airport with a club. Two visits for $50 = $25 per visit.

Under the common name "The United Club," they are offering passes good for a single visit to only one location.

Given the industry's history, I would look for other airlines to follow suit.

As of this writing, however, U.S. Airways is still offering a variety of options beyond full-year memberships. They offer day passes (at a discount if you purchase on-line when you book your ticket) and a 90-day membership. In addition, Red Carpet Club or Presidents Club membership will also gain a traveler access to a U.S. Airways club.

American Airlines also continues to offer day passes to its Admiral's Clubs for $50 per person.

So there are still deals to be had; one just has to ask questions and listen closely to the details of the answer.

BEND, OR: The Oxford Hotel Revisited

2011-10-30T15:13:00.001-07:00

My wife and I happened upon the Oxford Hotel in the spring of 2010 while visiting friends who live nearby. We were delighted to find this upscale offering in Bend and recently, quite pleased to return.

Opened in January 2010, the Oxford Hotel has all the benefits of being new, including lack of wear and tear on the physical plant or furnishings, and having most everything in working order.

Beautifully designed in Pacific Northwest contemporary -- lots of dark woods, deep earth tones -- the Oxford is also designed with sustainability in mind. Being the Pacific Northwest, one would expect no less. Floors are often cork, counter tops are made from concrete or recycled glass. Even the duvet cover is made from recycled plastic bottles, though they're so luxe you'd never know it were it not for the card next to the bed telling you about it.

Our room was on the second floor and faced the street so I was a bit concerned about possible noise. I needn't have been. State-of-the-art windows kept things pleasantly peaceful through the night, and blackout curtains kept the room dark until we were good and ready to rise in the morning.

Flat screen TVs offer satellite TV plus an in-house channel that turns the TV into a virtual fireplace. The workspace boasts numerous inputs and outlets, providing plenty of places to charge that laptop, cell phones, MP3 players, and the other devices we carry today. There are also connections that allow one to display the output from a laptop on the TV.

The Oxford's in-room coffee is clearly the best we've ever experienced, though my wife readily admits she's too lazy to deal with the freshly-ground coffee, a hot pot, and French press. Coffee making at the Oxford therefore falls to me.

In-room dining is offered with food prepared by 10 Below, the restaurant in the hotel basement. While we chose to eat at other nearby restaurants on this visit, I did visit 10 Below and enjoy oysters on the half-shell with a nightcap before retiring.

On our previous visit, we enjoyed a tartare flight of lomi-lomi salmon, spicy tuna, and steak tartare, accompanied by crispy nem rolls served with lettuce, mint, and dipping sauces. Incredible! Breakfast is also served at 10 Below, with items ranging from traditional breakfast fare to several more inventive offerings.

The restaurant has a decent, though not huge, wine list. Oregon Pinot Noirs top the list, with proffered Cabernets from California, and whites from California and New Zealand.

Most notably, wine prices are very reasonable. We enjoyed a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc we buy at retail from time to time. While between $ 15 - 17 at retail, 10 Below offered it at $24 a bottle -- far below the all-too-common 100% restaurant mark-up, which would have put the price in the low $30 range.

The hotel also offers a complimentary guest laundry; a gym with a sauna, steam room, and whirlpool; and in-room internet access. There's no business center, but a laptop is available for use in the lobby for those who don't travel with their own.

Parking arrangements at the Oxford are a bit unusual. The hotel offers valet parking, or one can self-park in the adjacent garage for $5 from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. (except Sundays). However, guests who self-park must pay at a box in the garage; the cost of parking is not added to your hotel folio because the garage is operated by the city of Bend.

As we experienced on our first visit, housekeeping is an area that needs improvement. Our room lacked a folding rack upon which to set our suitcase, and there was a fair bit of hair from a previous guest(s?) still in the shower drain. I wrapped the hair in a washcloth and took it to the concierge when I told her about the oversights. She was horrified, apologized profusely, and made notes for housekeeping. Having spent time in the hospitality industry, I realize such things happen but I also know that management wants -- and needs -- to know about oversights like these or they can't correct them.

All in all, we love the Oxford Hotel and definitely plan to return the next time we're in Bend!

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

BEND, OR: joolz is a Jewel!

2011-10-27T15:24:00.000-07:00

During a recent visit to Bend, my wife and I decided to explore the downtown area in search of an interesting dinner venue. We found joolz, an establishment that serves up some pretty authentic Mediterranean food at very reasonable prices

The restaurant’s positioning statement, “Where mezze meets the mesa,” was a bit puzzling until I learned that “mezze” is a selection of small dishes served in the Mediterranean and Middle East as an appetizer course. Small plates – “mezze” – were exactly what we were after!

Even though we did not have a reservation we were seated immediately, which was a pleasant surprise on a Saturday night. Another restaurant we’d considered had a 45-minute wait, so we were happy to be ushered to our booth quickly.

The restaurant’s interior is decorated in rich fabrics and long, flowing curtains that evoke the feel of a Bedouin tent -- in keeping with its Mediterranean menu offerings.

Our server arrived quickly, brought our bottle of Nobilo Icon (extremely well-priced at $25 a bottle), then gave us some time to peruse the menu.

We enjoyed spiced olives, kibbe (Lebanese meatballs made of beef and lamb and simmered in sauce), hummus, and oven-roasted cauliflower. A lemon tahini sauce gave the cauliflower a special tang, and the abundant pita bread that came with the hummus gave us plenty to nibble with every course. Total bill with wine (before tip): $55!

Our server – attentive without being intrusive – left us to linger over our wine and nibbles, then brought the check promptly when we were finally ready to go. We were in no hurry to leave, but we will certainly hurry back!

TOLEDO, WA: Mrs. Beasley's Burgers

2011-10-24T09:51:00.000-07:00

I've driven past Mrs. Beasley's Burgers since first moving to Washington in 1983, but this weekend was the first time I pulled off I-5 and stopped in. I'm sorry I waited so long!

If you drive Interstate 5 between Seattle and Portland, you've likely noticed Mrs. Beasley's Burgers on the east side of the highway at Exit 59. It's a small stand that looks like it might be a candidate for Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives.

The reason I took so long to stop in is simply that it's in the wrong location - only about 1-1/2 hours south of my home. When I head south, I usually leave early in the morning, so it's nowhere near lunch time when I pass. And when I return, I'm usually hungry well before I get to Toledo.

So I've driven past frequently and usually wondered whether I was passing a not-so-hidden gem.

Last weekend, my wife and I were returning from visiting friends in central Oregon and, thanks to a leisurely start to our morning, the timing worked out for lunch at Mrs. Beasley's.

Dan and Dixie Beasley bought this roadside stand in 1976 and have developed a loyal following in the 35 years since. Biting into my deluxe cheeseburger, it was easy to see why.

Prepared to order, the burger was hot and dripping with juice. The bun, the lettuce and the tomato were fresh, and the pickles crisp. I had mine with the "relish" Mrs. Beasley offers as standard fare and thought it was a bit heavy on the mayo, but that's easily fixed. My bride eschewed the sauce in favor of simple ketchup and mustard and was quite pleased indeed.

We also ordered fries, which are the larger crinkle-cut variety. They too arrived hot but could have used a fair bit more salt. Again, easily fixed.

There is a modest seating area inside decorated with plants hanging from macrame pot hangers that may have been there since 1976, two-man saws possibly used nearby back in the day, and vinyl tableclothes. Kitschy? Obviously. Modest? Yes. But kept clean and presentable by the attentive staff.

My recommendation? If you're a fan of really good burgers, do yourself a favor and stop at Mrs. Beasley's next time you're passing through Toledo. You won't be disappointed!

Flight Attendant Faux Pas

2011-09-17T18:36:00.000-07:00

Every time I fly, I hear flight attendants using words in ways that no doubt cause my freshman English teacher Mrs. Prosser to turn over in her grave. Flight attendants regularly - and apparently unknowingly - use the wrong words during their cabin announcements. As homage to my diminutive, gray-haired grammarian, I intend to help them fix their foibles.

Flight attendant faux pas often begin even before take-off when they announce, “we will have an extremely full flight.” The term “full” is an absolute; either a container has additional capacity or it does not. If every seat will be occupied, the plane is simply “full.” (One might also accept “completely full” for its additional emphasis, but “extremely” is just plain wrong.) While a flight may be “oversold” because the airline sold more tickets than there are seats, I have yet to be on a flight where a passenger occupies one of the overhead luggage bins or where more than one person is stuffed into a seat (though I’ve occasionally felt like it).

Flight attendants often announce that the plane will be taking off or landing “momentarily.” “Momentarily” means “for a moment,” implying that the plane is either going to take off, then land in short order or perhaps that the pilot intends to practice touch-and-go landings. The term for which they’re grasping is “in a moment.”

Toward the end of the flight, I’ve heard them announce that the captain has turned on the seatbelt sign and that passengers much remain in their seats “for the duration of the flight.” The word “duration” means “the length of.” As the majority of the flight has already passed, they mean - and should say - the “remainder” of the flight.

If these terms are scripted into cabin announcements by your airline, I respectfully suggest you consult your resident grammar guru and correct this butchery of the English language. If, on the other hand, the language was scripted by some bureaucrat and mandated by the FAA, then you have my understanding as well as my complete sympathy.

Even Mrs. Prosser understood, “You can’t fight city hall.”

OPINION: Social Networking Travel Sites or Your Favorite Blogger?

2011-08-28T10:38:00.000-07:00

Which is a better source of travel advice: your favorite social networking site or your favorite blogger? The answer can be “either one." It depends on how you use the cornucopia of information available to us today.

Bloggers can be sources of useful information or not, just as sites like TripAdvisor can be sources of useful information or simply raw data. You have to use any resource wisely, applying your own judgment and experience to interpret the information you’re given.

And importantly, you have to do your homework.

Consider this: when my wife and I visited Venice in the spring of 2009, we stayed at The Hotel Al Ponte Antico, the hotel rated Number One by TripAdvisor members. In my subsequent review, I agreed that there were many reasons to recommend it but was also clear about it being a small, intimate hotel (only nine rooms) located right on the Grand Canal. That meant two things: it was not the place to go if you wanted a hotel where you’d be more or less anonymous, and that canal-side rooms might not be the quietest. All things considered, though, I gave it a rating of five out of five.

Some months later, another reviewer gave it a two out of five, complaining about the two things I’d mentioned in my review: the small size resulting in a lack of anonymity, and noise due to its proximity to the Grand Canal.

In another instance, I posted a very detailed review of The Lucerne Hotel, a favorite of ours on New York’s Upper West Side. In that review, I explained that the hotel was in the process of renovating its rooms. I noted that the suites would be the last to be completed and recommended that anyone interested in a suite ask about the state of the rehab before booking.

A short time later, another member posted a review complaining that their suite “obviously needed updating.”

What does that mean? It probably means these people didn’t read into the reviews very far or they’d have seen what I (and others) had written. That’s part of being smart in your use of social media.

Another part is looking at the “credentials” of the reviewer. Has s/he posted more than one or two (or 10) reviews? In one instance, a fellow T/A member slammed the Four Points Hotel off the Magnificent Mile in Chicago because their “junior suite” didn’t have a separate room. That’s why it’s called a “junior” suite; obviously, that person wasn’t a very experienced traveler. More telling, however, was that the negative review (in which they complained that management wouldn’t upgrade them to a full suite for the same price) was the only one they had ever posted (at least under that particular screen name). That makes me think they established that account just to grind that particular axe.

In addition to looking at how many reviews a person has posted, look at whether the reviews are all good or all bad. Does the reviewer love everything, or can nothing make them happy?

Perhaps the Holy Grail, though it doesn’t happen often, is finding a reviewer who has reviewed an establishment you’ve already visited. If you’re lucky enough to find such a review, ask yourself how their experience aligns with your own. If you’re in sync, perfect!

Next, look at the property’s own web site. For my recent trip to Amsterdam, I briefly considered staying at a hotel called the Black Tulip after reading several reviews in which T/A members described as funky and avante garde. However, when I went to the hotel’s web site, I learned the hotel catered to gay men with a bent for S&M. Perhaps in the interest of remaining “family-friendly,” TripAdvisor said nothing about this particular aspect of the hotel's "ambiance."

If you find a blogger with whom you seem to be in sync, that is the best thing short of a recommendation from a trusted friend. That’s the dynamic that existed back in the days when newspapers had travel reporters (and restaurant and movie reviewers, for that matter): you’d eventually get to know whether your taste aligned with theirs and, as a result, you’d either take their recommendations or steer clear.

For me, Rick Steves is a great case in point. Rick, whom I've known casually for a number of years, is a great guy and a good writer with a specific point of view on how to travel: economically.

That’s not the way I want to travel.

So, while I respect Rick’s experience and readily acknowledge he has some great tips (like where to buy tickets to museums and other attractions to either save money or avoid long lines), I’m not going to avoid a place simply because he thinks it’s too pricey, nor am I going to rent a van and hunt down campgrounds in Switzerland to save a few bucks. His style is not my style.

My recommendation is to find a blogger (or columnist or travel reporter) whose point of view fits with yours, and make him or her your first stop. Then, use social media, but use it wisely, which takes a fair bit of work. Finally, check out the web sites of the places you plan to visit to see what they have to say about themselves.

Bon voyage!

Click on photos to view larger size.
PHOTOS CREDIT: Carl Dombek

Confessions of a Cruise Virgin

2011-08-24T16:40:00.000-07:00

I now understand why author Alex Haley would go to sea to write: the salt air and the solitude.

Because I am writing this aboard a cruise ship that is carrying more than 1,400 fellow passengers and a crew of 600, you may think this an unlikely epiphany. However, moments ago, I found myself quite pleasantly alone with my thoughts on the Sky Deck of the ms Volendam, the newest ship in the Holland America line to ply the waters of the Inside Passage between Vancouver, British Columbia and Alaska.

My awakening includes the shattering of some other preconceived notions about onboard life:

You'll gain weight.Not necessarily. I considered it my duty to experience all the dining venues the ship has to offer (a tough job, I know, but someone has to do it). I found the cuisine to be widely varied, yet uniformly delightful.

For lunch today I chose a salad of asparagus tips and cherry tomatoes on a bed of greens with a small portion of thinly sliced, smoked chicken breast topped with vinaigrette dressing. A cup of spicy Santa Fe Tomato soup with a couple of rye rolls and I was thoroughly satisfied, much to the amazement of my server, who kept pointing out the fine entrees of which I was depriving myself.

Meals are included in the cost of the cruise, as are between-meal snacks, 24-hour room service, and the midnight buffets, so it is certainly possible to eat yourself silly, but it's your choice. Also, with a state-of-the art gym including personal trainers, a sauna and steam room to work off excess calories, weight gain need not be a foregone conclusion.

You'll be cut off from the outside world. False, although that could be either good news or bad news. Every cabin has a telephone with ship-to-shore capabilities, allowing you to talk all you want at about $8 a minute. The Volendam even has a first-of-its-kind Internet Café featuring eight state-of-the-art terminals that, via satellite link, enable us workaholics to stay in touch via e-mail, or surf the Internet at 75-cents a minute. The Café, where I'm writing this column, looks like the busiest room on the ship - at least until the disco opens later tonight.

The average age of your fellow passengers will be between 65 and dead. If that was ever true, it's not any more; the clientele aboard cruise ships has a very broad age range. Today's ships offer activities for all ages, from an on-board library to the Internet Café; from Broadway-style shows to recent movies in the ship's theatre; from shuffleboard to tennis courts; from karaoke to sing-alongs in the piano bar. Holland America's ships even carry youth directors, offer planned activities targeting tykes to teens, and a young people's program dubbed "Club HAL."

You'll be pampered. True. Both the cabin and restaurant staffs are delightful: attentive without being intrusive, and always very efficient. This morning, for example, I took a mile-and-a-half walk around the deck, then a sauna and a shower in the gym. By the time I returned to my cabin, the bed had been made up and the room tidied.

So far, I've ordered room service three times. Each time, they promised it would "be there within 30 minutes." Only once did they take to full half-hour; the other two occasions, my order arrived in 15 minutes.

You'll be cramped. False. The publicity materials say the Volendam's cabins are 25-percent larger than other ships in the same class. I can't vouch for that figure, but my "large outside stateroom" has a queen bed, a love seat that would fold out to a hide-a-bed if I was inclined to put more than two people into approximately 200 square feet, a small desk, closet space, and (uniquely, I'm told) a full bath with tub and shower.

The mantra of the cruise industry today seems to be "bigger is better:" bigger ships, bigger cabins, bigger passenger complements. Which brings us back to the topic of solitude.

The cabins are arranged to maximize the amount of public space, both inside the ship and on the open decks. Several lounges provide the opportunity to sit, read, and watch the passing sights, which is an absolute must when sailing the Inside Passage and seeing sights like Ketchikan, Juneau, the Mendenhall Glacier and Glacier Bay, and Skagway.

If you're hearty enough, there's plenty of space outside on the Promenade, Lido, Sports and Sky decks. And, if you're well heeled enough, you can also survey the passing tableau from your own private verandah.

A cruise is expensive. While cruising would probably not be considered an "economy" vacation, it can be quite economical, considering that meals and a number of different types of entertainment are included in a single price.

Published rates for a seven-day cruise on the Volendam, depending on the size of the stateroom and the time of the season, ranged from $1,299 per person for an inside cabin to $7,145 per person for the 1100-square-foot penthouse at the beginning of the season. Mini-suites, the smallest cabins with private verandahs, ranged from $2,938 to $3,965 per person. Remember to double that if two people are traveling together.

But at this time of year, when the Alaska cruise season is winding down, there are deals to be had. If you're able to travel on short notice, check out the web site of several cruise lines. You might be pleasantly surprised...and perhaps soon will be writing your own "confessions."

Bon voyage!

TIGARD, OR: The Grand Hotel

2011-08-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

The Grand Hotel in Tigard, Oregon – about 15 minutes south of downtown Portland – is a very good hotel; however, there are several factors that keep it from being truly "grand."

Despite its slightly industrial, boxy exterior, the Grand Hotel makes an excellent first impression. The facility is only about two years old, so everything still looks quite new and is in good repair. The two-story lobby is nicely appointed with just a hint of luxury, and the front desk staff is generally pleasant, efficient, and responsive.

"Classic King" Room

Our “Classic King” room was well furnished with a comfortable bed, a leather sofa, desk, and other features today’s travelers expect, including a flat-screen TV and iron and ironing board. The bathroom was generously sized and included high-end finishes.

Our nightly room rate included a hot buffet breakfast each morning; a nice touch that enables guests to get a bite to eat without piling into the car and heading off property. The lobby also offers a pantry area where guest can purchase snacks and beverages including soda, wine, and beer.

The Grand Hotel also has an indoor pool, a very modest fitness center, free WiFi (but no business center), and free parking in both open lots and a parking garage.

Shortcomings include front desk staff members who, while generally pleasant and helpful, have yet to develop the polish one expects to find in a high-end hotel. For example, they tend to say “No problem!” rather than “You’re welcome” or “My pleasure,” which are the preferred responses.

Our guest room did not have a closet. Instead, it had a small armoire that held very little and was too short to hang a formal dress without it crumpling on the floor. For most business and leisure travelers, that may not be a problem but we were in the area for a wedding. Long dresses were the uniform of the weekend.

Lighting in the guest room was positively awful. Every lamp and light fixture in the room was outfitted with what must have been first-generation compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) -- the type that flicker before they come on, then emit light that reminds one of bad office lighting. State-of-the-art CFLs come in a range of color temperatures and emit a much more natural light. The Grand Hotel definitely needs an update in this area.

Bathroom amenities -- soap, shampoo, and other accoutrement -- did not match their upscale surroundings and were not especially impressive.

The in-room alarm clock was impossible to decipher and, though I thought I’d managed to turn off the alarm, I hadn’t... as I learned at 6:25 the next morning. On that topic, I believe hotels should make housekeeping staff responsible for ensuring that alarm clocks are set to “off” whenever a guest checks out.

Service was inconsistent. Upon arrival in our room, I called housekeeping to request extra water glasses, towels, and bathrobes. My mid-afternoon call, using the “Housekeeping” speed dial button on the in-room phone, went to the voice mail of the head of housekeeping, and her outgoing message stated that my message would be responded to shortly. It wasn’t, so about 6 o’clock that evening I went to the front desk to request the additional items. THEY were able to get us the things we needed – except the bathrobes, which the hotel does not offer.

The food quality on the buffet breakfast on all three days of our stay was no better than so-so. However, there are several restaurants nearby – some within easy walking distance - so travelers are not stuck with the hotel’s offerings.

Finally, the Grand Hotel does not participate in any hotel or airline loyalty programs so guests are not able to earn any points or miles for their stay.

All things considered, I would recommend the Grand Hotel, but be aware of its shortcomings and plan accordingly.

Photo credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view larger image

NORMANDY PARK: The Kayak Bar and Grill

2011-07-25T02:22:00.001-07:00

I'm always surprised by how much impact "the little things" can have, whether for better or worse. With the Kayak Bar and Grill, it was "worse."

One recent afternoon, I popped into this establishment on 1st Avenue South, as much out of curiosity as of hunger. I was disappointed at the demise of the Archery Bistro cum Archery Bar and Grill which had occupied the space previously and was hoping the space's new tenants would do better.

What I experienced gives me little hope for the place's long-term prospects.

The first thing I noticed as I walked in the front door was the canoe hanging from the ceiling. Not a kayak; a canoe. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we know the difference and so should they. Strike one.

Sidling up to the bar which was occupied by one other gentleman of approximately my vintage, I chose some nibbles off the Happy Hour menu along with a glass of white wine. While the wine was OK (though only "OK"), my experience with the appetizers caused me concerns about the kitchen's prowess.

My skewers of beef and chicken arrived quickly. Perhaps too quickly. The beef was nicely done in a medium-rare fashion, but so was the chicken. "Medium-rare chicken" is not a phrase that should be in anyone's lexicon, as undercooked chicken is more than unappealing; it can be a health hazard.

On top of that was the topping: a sort of gloppy teriyaki sauce that tasted like it came out of a bottle, and a cheap bottle at that. Uninspired food, poorly prepared, with a bottled sauce. Strike two.

Especially with only two customers who could have easily afforded to stay for a full dinner, the bartender should have been more engaged with his customers and tried to entice us to stick around for a full meal. He wasn't. Strike three.

Granted, it was only a single experience but the poor preparation of what is a very simple appetizer makes me wonder if they do anything well. With the wealth of restaurants in the Seattle area, I'm not inclined to try them again to find out.

SEATTLE, WA: Canlis Restaurant

2011-07-11T09:15:00.000-07:00

Perhaps you've had the experience of going to a restaurant you've heard about - perhaps for years - only to find out its glory days are long gone and it's living on its reputation. That is decidedly not the case with Canlis. Founded by Peter Canlis in 1950, this elegant restaurant is now being directed by its third generation of Canlis family members -- scions who are clearly dedicated to maintaining this restaurant's well-deserved reputation.

Although my wife and I have lived in Seattle for a number of years, we had never dined at Canlis. We were in our "salad days" when we lived here in the '80s, and they were exactly that; we simply didn't have the funds for this icon's offerings.

This year, we decided to mark our birthdays (including one milestone birthday) with dinner at this Seattle landmark. In retrospect, we're sorry we waited so long!

Arriving well before the time of our reservation, we slipped into the small, retro bar and enjoyed a champagne cocktail and a Hawaiian-themed drink named the Halekulani, after Peter Canlis' favorite hotel on O'ahu. The atmosphere was so inviting that we lingered in the lounge beyond our 6 p.m. reservation time. Unhurried, we were graciously escorted to our table when we were ready and not a moment before.

At Canlis, all the tables have a view of Lake Union and, on clear days, the Cascade mountains in the distance; there isn't a bad seat in the house. However, some seats are better than others, and window seats provide an unobstructed view.

Service was prompt and attentive, and our primary server MacKenna used our names just enough to give the evening a very personal feel. I say "primary" because Canlis practices a "team" approach to service with everyone on Canlis' service staff taking responsibility for each and every guest. No one passed our table without at least a quick glance to ensure that all was well, or to check to see if we were in need of anything.

Because it was a birthday celebration, we pulled out all the stops and started with an appetizer of steak tartare and a Canlis salad. From there, we moved on: my wife to the halibut and I to a New York steak, with shared sides of twice-baked potato and forest mushrooms.

My better half enjoyed a Bourgogne Blanc with her fish while I opted for a Crozes Hermitage followed by an Argentine Malbec.

Friends who learned of our dining plans urged us to indulge in the Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. Though we prefer savory to sweet and generally don't eat dessert, we were ever so glad we did! The soufflé was light and had a touch of sweetness from the orange liqueur and the crème fraîche. A cup of deep, rich coffee concluded our 2-1/2 hour dining experience.

Make no mistake: Canlis is not inexpensive. Our dinner, including a well-deserved gratuity for the servers, the $5 valet parking charge and a gratuity for the valet who retrieved our car was slightly more than $335.

To capsulize the essence of our experience, Canlis provided us with a perfect trifecta of a beautiful view, delicious food, and outstanding service. How those three line up in the "win", "place", and "show" categories is really unimportant. They're all grand, and all combined to make it an experience we are very much looking forward to repeating.

DES MOINES, WA: The Scotch and Vine is Open for Business!

2011-06-28T10:38:00.000-07:00

The Scotch and Vine is now open in downtown Des Moines. And as proprietors Dave and Jill intended, it’s like no other restaurant in town.

My wife and I have been to The Scotch and Vine several times since its “soft opening” on June 8 and enjoy it more with each visit.

As one of the first to belly up to their bar at the soft opening, I was very impressed with the changes they’d made to the former home of Butler Bar and Grill. The interior is lighter and brighter, the décor more refined, and the acoustics have been tamed to better showcase the live jazz they feature on weekends.

I’m unsure of the source but someone said that, on the day it opened, The Scotch and Vine already had the third-largest selection of scotches in Seattle. I can’t vouch for the ranking, but I can vouch for a remarkable (and growing) selection.

From basics like Glenlivet and Glenfiddich to the more uncommon, the scotch selection is striking! While my absolute all-time favorite is 16-year-old Lagavulin (which of course they have), I’ve also been impressed by many other offerings, including cask-strength Laphroaig (at 115.6 proof!).

The wine selection is also impressive, boasting over 70 varieties including about 30 that are available by the glass. They also have more than a half-dozen local beers on tap, but none that you’ll find at other restaurants along Marine View Drive.

Good drinks, good food.

I’ve visited during a couple of happy hours (3:00 pm – 5:30 pm, Monday-Friday) and have thoroughly enjoyed the nibbles. During happy hour, The Scotch and Vine offers five appetizers ranging from $4 to $6, and offers 6 oz. pours of select wines for 50% off regular price. The nibbles, which come from the “Succulent Starters” section of the regular menu, include the a trio of roasted red pepper hummus, traditional hummus, and red onion confit (the Très Sheik); fingerling potato fries serves with inventive dipping sauces; The Napoleon (poached apples with Beecher’s “No Woman” cheese, applewood smoked bacon, and apple balsamic dressing – my personal favorite!); sirloin skewers; and grilled asparagus wrapped with prosciutto.

My wife and I have also enjoyed dinner several times. Recently, we went on a Thursday night when my mid-afternoon e-mail query of, “What do you want for dinner?” elicited the response, “Burgers at The Scotch and Vine!”

So my better half and I rendezvoused at the establishment to discover a Winemaker Tasting in progress. $10 bought tastings of five wines from Southard Winery in Selah, Washington. After sips of a Viognier, a pleasant dry Reisling, and a Rousanne, we moved to two hearty reds: the Whipping Boy Cabernet Sauvignon and a Syrah.

Several delighted our palettes but, as we were in a “red meat” mood, we ordered a bottle of the Whipping Boy.

After appetizers of the Très Sheik and the Pit Stop (a sampler of olives), we proceeded to the Lawrence Elk burger – a cute name that was lost on our 20-something hostess, (“Thankya, boyz!”), and the White Tail – a grilled venison burger topped with smoked mozzarella cheese.

Those burgers are two of eight varieties that also include an andouille beef burger, lamb, buffalo, and a vegetarian portobello burger.

Good atmosphere, good service.

While The Scotch and Vine is a new restaurant and represents Dave and Jill’s first foray into the restaurant industry, they seem like naturals. They’re both outgoing and friendly, with a good sense of what “hospitality” is all about. They work the room constantly, often sitting for a few moments to talk with their guests about the scotch, the food, the wine, whatever.

Veterans of the industry, wine guru Chris and executive chef Adam obviously share the same sense of hospitality, also talking with their guests and truly making them feel welcome.

Bartenders Drew and Chris (who goes by Sims to avoid confusion with the aforementioned wine guru) clearly understand that bartending is more than pouring drinks; it’s really “people-tending,” and they do it very well. They quickly learn their patrons’ names and favorite selections, which makes walking up to the bar a bit like walking into “Cheers” must have been. Hosts Melissa and Skye are younger and newer to the industry but no less enthusiastic.

In my never-to-be-humble opinion, The Scotch and Vine is a welcome addition to the Des Moines area which I hope stays around for a long, long time.

I encourage you to give it a try!

Photo credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view larger image

Accessing Airline Clubs Economically

2011-06-27T08:16:00.000-07:00

I am a big fan of airline clubs. But these havens from the cacophony of the concourse come at a cost. Recently, I discovered a way to make the price of admission downright affordable.

During my travels, I’ve visited Alaska Airlines Board Rooms, United Red Carpet Clubs, U.S. Airways Clubs, an Iberia Airways Lounge, and British Airways Speedwing and Terrace Lounges.

British Airways Terrace Club, SFO

These clubs, like the one shown here, offer numerous complimentary features including Wi-Fi; beer, wine, spirits, soft drinks, and snacks; newspapers; business centers; meeting rooms; and showers. The list goes on and, of course, varies by club and location.

I’ve purchased “day passes” to these clubs when circumstances made the fee a far better option than spending time among the teeming masses in the main terminal. But day passes have their drawbacks.

Complimentary snacks and nibbles

As the name implies, they’re only good for one day: the day of issue. You may gain access to multiple clubs if you have connecting flights and layovers but the benefits expire at midnight, so day passes may not be beneficial if your travels span more than one date – if you’re taking a red-eye, for example.

Second, day passes are usually priced per person. The first person may pay $50 while a second person can gain entrance for an additional $25.

Until recently, I thought the only alternative was an annual membership, costing as much as $500. But I’ve learned of a way to obtain an annual membership that allows virtually unlimited access at about half that cost, making club membership something even occasional travelers may want to consider.

Banks have been offering airline affinity cards for years – cards that earn miles for every dollar spent. More recently, some have begun offering cards that combine the mileage benefit and club membership. It’s this bundling of features that makes membership more affordable.

As an example, consider the United Airlines VISA® card. Issued by Chase Bank, the MileagePlus Select VISA® provides miles for every dollar spent and carries an annual fee of $95. Chase also offers a United Airlines VISA® Club Card that includes membership in United Airlines’ Red Carpet Club, which includes access to Continental Airlines Presidents Clubs and US Airways Clubs in addition to providing miles for every dollar spent using the card. The annual fee for the Club Card is $375, lowering the net cost of club membership to $280, or a little over $23 a month when compared to the MileagePlus Select VISA®. In addition, the Club Card waives foreign transaction fees, which are typically 3% of the amount spent or withdrawn from an ATM (not including ATM fees). The Continental Airlines Presidential Plus VISA®, also issued by Chase, includes similar benefits and waives checked-bags fees for the first two bags.

Compare the annual fee to the cost of day passes. If a traveler buys day passes for two people on both the outbound and inbound legs of their trip, those passes would cost $150. If a traveler takes as few as two trips per year with a companion (or three trips alone, where days passes both ways would cost $100 per trip), the annual membership becomes a bargain by comparison. And the more one travels, the cheaper membership becomes.

If you travel outside the US, such a card will also save you about US$30 for every US$1,000 you spend beyond our borders, lowering the net cost even further. Unless you’re a truly infrequent traveler, I believe it’s something to consider.

Those who are truly infrequent fliers may want to consider affinity cards like the MileagePlus Select VISA® that offer miles per dollar spent and two club passes per year. With its considerably lower annual fee of $95, once- or twice-a-year club access maybe enough for casual travelers.

In either case, a little homework can bring great dividends.

Click on photos to view larger images

Santa Ana, CA: DoubleTree Club Hotel

2011-06-20T16:01:00.000-07:00

The DoubleTree Club Hotel in Santa Ana is a perfectly adequate but relatively unremarkable hotel. Its best features are its location and the rates and upgrades available when guests book through HiltonHHonors.com.

The DoubleTree Club Hotel is a basic business hotel. It’s a bit smaller than many similar properties in the Hilton family, it’s well kept and attractive, and the staff members are polite and pleasant enough. The on-site restaurant and lounge are convenient, as are the fitness and business centers, but “adequate” is probably the highest praise they deserve.

The DoubleTree Club Hotel is close to John Wayne Airport in Orange County, making it a relatively short drive to Disneyland and other Southland attractions, but not right in the middle of the craziness. That’s primarily why it appealed to me for a last-minute trip to the Magic Kingdom.

The living area of the Balboa Suite

However, while the property’s location is one of its positive attributes, it is also a negative. Though close to a couple of major freeways (I-405 and the 55), it’s in an area that is primarily office and industrial space. That means the weekends can be pretty quiet, and it also means there aren’t many restaurants nearby. There is the usual retinue of fast food and strip mall restaurants but the choices are relatively few.

Balboa Suite Sleeping Room

The AAA rate on HiltonHHonors.com was quite good, and the benefits of booking Hilton properties through the Hilton web site often include very reasonable upgrades. Depending on the level one has obtained in the HiltonHHonors program, upgrades can be requested for a very nominal reasonable – or NO – fee. My Diamond status snared me a “corner room” -- The Balboa Suite, Room 633 - for no additional cost! As you can see from the pictures, the “corner room” was more accurately described as a “suite”.

If you’re able to take advantage of upgrades, I definitely recommend looking into the DoubleTree Club Hotel if you need to be in Orange County. Otherwise, I don’t believe you’ll be disappointed. But don’t expect to be overly impressed either.

Photo credits: Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view larger images

INDIANAPOLIS: Amalfi Restorante - Recommendation Received

2011-06-08T17:21:00.000-07:00

Did you ever wonder whether anyone pays attention to your recommendations? Today, I received confirmation that, at least in some cases, they do!

Well over a year ago, I recommended our favorite Italian restaurant in Indianapolis to a woman I met while on a flight for business. Today, I received the following e-mail:

Hi Carl,

I met you on a flight more than a year ago and when we met, you recommended Amalfi Ristorante in Indianapolis. I wanted you to know that my husband, son and I had dinner there last weekend and it was excellent! I told Joni and Mario that you recommended their restaurant. And we also followed your advice and asked for Jonathan to be our waiter. He, too, was great!!

Anyway, I thought you might like to know that we followed your advice, and thanks to you, we had a wonderful evening. I hope this finds you well.

My best,

Linda

Linda, I'm so glad to hear it!

Buon appetito!

BOW, WA: The Oyster Bar

2011-05-13T14:50:00.000-07:00

I’ve been known to drive some pretty long distances for a good meal. When I lived in Indianapolis, my wife and I drove to Cleveland – some 5-1/2 hours – just to eat at Chef Michael Symon’s restaurant, Lola. So yesterday’s 100-mile jaunt was a Sunday drive by comparison.

With thoughts of a lovely lunch in mind, I jumped in the car and drove north to The Oyster Bar, a little place near the town of Bow, overlooking Samish Bay and the San Juan Islands beyond. My wife and I had been to The Oyster Bar perhaps 20 years ago so I wanted to see if it was still there at all, and if it was as good as I remembered.

It is still there – has been since the ‘20s, according to my server – and the view is still as spectacular as always, though the picture doesn’t come close to doing it justice. As an added bonus, the restaurant is configured so that every table in the place enjoys the same panorama.

The food. Ah, the food.

Despite the drive, I wasn’t ravenous enough to take full advantage of the many items on offer, so I opted to start with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and a half-dozen oysters. The sample of six came with two of each variety: Samish Bay (obviously very local), Penn Cove from nearby Whidbey Island, and Nootka from Nootka Sound on Vancouver Island in British Columbia. Each was excellent, though different varieties of oysters have different characteristics. The Penn Cove oysters were my personal favorites.

Between the oysters, wine, and rolls with butter, my appetite was already being sated but I couldn’t stop there. I had to try a cup of the Wild Nettle and Artichoke soup made of locally gathered nettles, artichokes, Yukon gold potatoes and finished with dry vermouth. A very pretty deep green color, the soup had little aroma and was far too subtle in flavor for my taste. The most notable sensation was a slight sting at the back of the throat from the nettles.

When my server saw that I’d eaten less than half and asked whether I had not cared for the soup, she then offered to bring me a cup of the Samish Bay clam chowder instead. THAT was delightful. While the soup was white as one would expect in a New England-style chowdah, the broth was very light – more like a Rhode Island clam chowder than the thick New England variety. Tasty and light; a great combination.

The one drawback was the speed of service. While very gracious, it was far slower than it should have been considering that the two servers had no more than eight occupied tables between them (and sometimes fewer). It took nearly an hour and a half for my lunch of a half-dozen oysters, a glass of wine, and two rounds of soup. While The Oyster Bar isn’t a fast-food establishment, my simple lunch should not have taken that long.

Despite that one hiccup I will definitely return – but this time with my wife to complete the trifecta: good views, good food, good company.

PHOTO CREDITS: Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view larger images.

BURIEN, WA: The Tin Room

2011-05-05T06:22:00.001-07:00

I've been meaning to write a review of this wonderful little spot in Olde Burien for quite some time. Today's the day.

Things To Do
Seattle

I happened upon the Tin Room Bar & Grill a couple of months ago when I was looking for a restaurant in Olde Burien. The Zagats stickers in the front window proved as alluring as a coho fly to a sockeye salmon, so in I went.

Taking a seat at the bar so I could both watch the action and talk with the bartender, I quickly saw that the Tin Room was no ordinary bar. An industrial juicer was clamped to the bar in front of me, and boxes of fresh citrus lined the bar rail. A very good sign indeed!

When the bartender asked if I'd like something to drink, I responded by asking his specialties. He ran through a couple but a variation on the classic Greyhound sounded exactly like what the doctor ordered. Turns out, Michael had concocted the drink, which adds a splash of St. Germaine on top of the vodka and grapefruit juice. But this was no ordinary Greyhound; it was made with grapefruit juice which was freshly squeezed right in front of me! To order! No bottled mixes in sight at the Tin Room.

For my entree, I ordered a BLT with bleu cheese and avocado. A good BLT is always a great nosh, and the Tin Room's addition of tangy bleu cheese puts it at least a notch above any other I've eaten. The sandwich, which conveniently can be ordered as a half-sandwich, came with crispy Tin Room fries.

On my next visit, my wife and I popped in for lunch.

Some weeks later, I stopped in during the mid-afternoon lull for a quick cocktail. I had a taste for a blackberry sour but asked the bartender to make it with the richer-tasting Creme de Casis instead of blackberry brandy. She made it to order, muddling two sugar cubes in freshly-squeezed lemon and orange juice, then hand-shaking the concoction. We both tasted it and agreed the first round was a bit too sweet.

The second time around, she made it without sugar (as the Creme de Casis is sweet enough) and left out the OJ as well. MUCH better, and further improved by a splash of soda water on top. Delightful!

Yesterday, I went for lunch and ordered what the menu calls a "Philly steak sandwich." While it wasn't a classic Philly Cheese Steak, it was nonetheless very good, and was made better by the fact that the Tin Room had grated horseradish (not horsey SAUCE) readily available so I could doctor the sammy to my liking.

The Tin Room occupies what used to be the Hi-Line Tin Shop. Established in 1930, it closed its doors in 2003 when proprietor Ernie Eder decided to retire. He may be absent from this space (though I'm told he still lives in the area), but the tools of his trade are still very much in place. The shop's sign and a sheet metal roller hang behind the bar. The walls are corrugated tin, and Ernie's workbenches have been refashioned as the Tin Room's tables.

The Tin Room is a smallish place, with about 40 seats inside (including those at the bar) and several more on the sidewalk in front and a deck in the back when the weather is good.

While Olde Burien may be a bit off the beaten track, I promise you that lunch, dinner or a drink at the Tin Room will make it worth the detour!

RECOMMENDATION: A "must try!"

Photo by Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-sized image

BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WA: The Streamliner Diner

2011-05-03T16:52:00.000-07:00

One recent morning on a day that threatened to be sunny, I decided to hop a ferry and enjoy breakfast on Bainbridge Island.

It had literally been years since I ate at the Streamliner Diner in Winslow, so I was pleased to learn it had stood the test of time and was still open. But things do change, so I’m happy to report that the food is both as inventive and as delicious as I recall.

This little restaurant isn’t in really a diner as the name implies. For about the last 35 years, it has occupied a spot in a nondescript little building on Winslow Way, a couple of blocks west of Highway 305 and is subtly signed, so you have to watch and read the signs or you might miss it.

Which would be a shame.

I arrived rather late for a member of the breakfast crowd – about 10 a.m. – but was greeted and seated quickly. Looking over the menu and the “specials” board, I decided to have the special omelet: Mango jalapeno sausage omelet with roasted red peppers, mushrooms, and jack cheese. It was offered with onions, which I asked them to hold. For my bread, I chose the biscuit and requested a side of gravy to top it off.

The breakfast came quickly – possibly because I had missed the crowds – but unfortunately my request to hold the onions had not been honored, so I set about picking them out as they were easily recognizable and just as easily removed.

My waitress noticed what I was doing and came right over to ask if everything was all right. When I told her that the onions had not been held as requested, she immediately offered to have the kitchen remake it. I assured her that wasn’t necessary, but it was certainly a welcome gesture and indicative of the general level of service.

Other than the onion issue, the omelet was quite tasty. The sausage had a bit of kick to it but was not overwhelming. The cheese was tasty and, importantly, applied with a deft hand. No sense drowning the thing in too much melted goo.

The sausage gravy was also pleasantly peppery and was probably the best biscuit gravy I’ve had in quite a while.

All in all, my most recent experience confirmed my pleasant memories of visits past. I’ll definitely be returning.

Streamliner Diner, 397 Winslow Way E, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110-2423. Tel: (206) 842-8595

Photo credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-sized image

SEATTLE: "Best Breakfast"...?

2011-04-14T11:15:00.000-07:00

A short time ago, I sought out a restaurant that claims to be the winner of "Seattle’s Best Breakfast Award." Maybe. Or maybe not.

Patty’s Eggnest & Turkey House in Mill Creek definitely presents a good breakfast, at least based on my sole visit.

The chicken fried steak was exactly as it should have been: crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, with lots of spice and covered in gravy. The scrambled eggs were generous, the hash browns (like the steak) crispy outside and tender inside, and the thick-cut rye toast was a great additional touch.

Patty’s, though, did have some negatives to note.

First, this location is brand new, about a mile from the original location on 164th St. While the restaurant is clean and shiny, large columns that define the booths also make it difficult for the staff in the front of the house to see when a diner has finished looking at his/her menu and is ready to order, or is trying to wave them down for more coffee.

Second, Patty’s provides a pot of strawberry freezer jam on each table like the one at left. I am not a fan of the type of container where the jam, jelly, or whatever is waiting to be spooned out; there’s no telling whether a previous diner may have double-dipped their own spoon in the pot and what cooties they may have left behind in the process. Beyond that, I find strawberry, grape, and the ubiquitous “mixed fruit” jams and jellies rather mundane. But when I asked if they had anything else (like orange marmalade), they told me they did not.

Third, Patty’s coffee is inexcusable. They pour Portland-packaged Boyd’s coffee. No disrespect to the Rose City, but this is Seattle and good coffee is available almost everywhere. Why they didn’t choose a fine, local brand is a mystery. Or maybe they’re deliberately brewing it weak in an attempt to economize. Whatever the reason, the coffee is substandard.

Finally, the service needs to be better. Perhaps the staff is still getting used to a new location, perhaps it’s because I arrived after the big breakfast rush, but I’d describe it as lackluster at best. Not downright inattentive, but it could (and should) have been so much better.

Patty’s Eggnest has eight locations in the Northwest, including the one shown here. I wouldn’t steer people away – I’ll probably stop in and try another location at some point – but I wouldn’t go out of my way, either.

Click on photos to view full-sized images.

Putting the Fun Back into Flying

2011-04-06T08:38:00.001-07:00

A low-fare carrier in South Africa is adding a bit of whimsy to its outward appearances to put some of the fun back into flying. That may be stretching things a bit, but not entirely.

Unique paint schemes for airliners ("liveries", as they're called in the industry) aren't exactly new. If you spend any time at all around airports, you may have seen the Alaska Airlines jet swathed in a salmon or, better yet, the Southwest Airlines jet with Sports Illustrated swimsuit model Bar Refaeli emblazoned on its side.

Eye-catching? You bet! Funny? Not so much.

Until now.

Recently, South African low-fare carrier kulula Airlines planted its corporate tongue firmly in its cheek and came up with a rather creative paint scheme of its own. The airline designated one of its Boeing 737s "Flying 101″, and covered the exterior with details and accompanying comments and the plane, its parts, and its people, as you see here.

Photos courtesy kulula Airlines.

The design, which provides a light-hearted (and sometimes edgy) guide to the various parts of the plane's interior, includes references to places including the "loo (or mile-high club initiation chamber)" and the "black box (which is actually orange)".

The nosecone has a number of playful inscriptions, including a reference to the pilot as "captain, my captain!", a slightly misquoted homage to poet Walt Whitman. Not to be ignored, the co-captain is referred to as "the other guy on the PA system."

The plane is one of a fleet expansion of eight state-of-the-art Boeing 737-800s, each of which will have a unique livery.

"Flying 101" was conceptualized and designed by kulula’s in-house design department. Nadine Damen, kulula Marketing Manager, says the branding idea was a result of "...our strategy to demystify air travel for our fans."

The plane became famous on the Internet even before touching down in South Africa for the first time. The second Boeing will appear to kulula fans much like an over-sized container box, with the words "this way up" printed on its side.

Now, if the industry as a whole can bring that spirit of whimsy to the inside of the aircraft (along with a couple of inches of extra legroom and an all-inclusive ticket price), we travelers would all be much better off!

AMSTERDAM: Hotel Seven Bridges Open Despite Cyberattacks

2011-04-04T01:12:00.000-07:00

In November 2009, I wrote about a sweet little hotel I'd visited while in Amsterdam. Apparently, that hotel is working to recover from the effects of a couple of unfortunate - though hopefully minor - setbacks.

First, a bit of background. When planning my trip to Amsterdam in 2009, my first choice in accommodations was the Hotel Seven Bridges (at left). I chose it because it was close to, though not in the heart of, the action at the Rembrandtplein, because other travelers reported it to be authentically Dutch, and because it fit my budget.

Unfortunately, it was booked for the nights of my trip so I chose a different hotel near the Leidseplien. During my trip, however, I visited the Hotel Seven Bridges to see what I had missed and to meet the proprietors, Günter Glaner and his partner. They were both delightful, and the hotel was even more charming in person than I would have imagined from the web site.

Shortly after I returned to the U.S., Günter contacted me and asked what he might do to counter some false, negative reviews a disgruntled former employee was posting on an Internet travel site. Most recently, Günter e-mailed me to advise that, "Hotel Seven Bridges in Amsterdam is still in business. The server of our webmaster has been attacked and all information - including our website - has been destroyed." However, the hotel itself is in fine shape and continues welcoming guests for its 11 charming guest rooms.

This hiccup is indeed unfortunate in this day and age when we depend so much on the Internet. But potential guests can still go "old school" when making reservations. Call Günter at 011-31-20-6231329 from the U.S. to inquire about rates and availability, or to make reservations.

Günter is very forthcoming about the rooms he recommends for his guests. Light sleepers, for example, should not book rooms on the canal. Though the canals in Amsterdam are not arteries of commerce like they are in Venice, the adjacent roads and biking and walking paths carry a fair bit of traffic, and even pedestrians walking home late at night from the local brown café can be loud enough to wake light sleepers.

The hotel’s main building is 300 years old, has no elevator and very steep, narrow stairs. There’s no room service, though in-room breakfast is included in the main building.

Information is available on the Seven Bridges’ web site, along with photos of each of the rooms, directions to the hotel, and other information. What the site doesn’t completely capture is property’s cozy charm; that is something you should experience for yourself.

Click on photos to view larger size.
PHOTO CREDIT, FRONT OF HOTEL: Carl Dombek
PHOTO OF GARDEN ROOM 5 Courtesy the Hotel Seven Bridges

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO: Four Seasons Hotel to Open June 15

2011-03-30T08:39:00.000-07:00

As if there weren't enough "exotic destinations" to consider when planning your next trip, the venerable Four Seasons hotel chain is about to open a property in Marrakech, Morocco.
The hotel's on-line brochure describes the five-star property this way:

An easy walk from the ancient ramparts of the Medina and across from the Menara Gardens, the rose-hued walls of Four Seasons Hotel Marrakech enfold a resort and spa in 40 acres of sunlit Moorish gardens – filled with birdsong, fountains and infinite rewards for families, couples or groups. This elegant Moroccan medina – with its light, contemporary touch – is calming and comfortable, private yet inspiringly open. Revel in savvy Four Seasons service as you relax, reflect and reconnect. Discover a refreshing new way to experience exotic Marrakech.

The Four Seasons' Web Site also offers a brief overview of Marrakech and a recommendation of things to do in Two Days in Marrakech.

Reservations are being accepted for June 15, 2011 or later at http://www.fourseasons.com/marrakech/rates_and_reservations/.

Photo credit: Four Seasons Hotel Marrakech
Click on photo to view full size image.

VANCOUVER, B.C.:Getting Around Sans Automobile

2011-03-29T10:37:00.000-07:00

Vancouver, British Columbia is one of my favourite destinations any time of year, but is particularly beautiful in the spring and summer. So it is with great pleasure that I share excerpts from a communiqué I received from a colleague who works for TransLink, the city's public transportation system.

As the cherry and plum blossoms re-appear and daylight starts stretching further past quitting time, Metro Vancouver is getting ready to welcome people from other parts of the world. The region was recently named the World’s Most Livable City, and one of the reasons for that (if we may say so ourselves) is the public transportation system.

Once one arrives, it’s remarkably easy to get around without a private vehicle, and with the current high price of gasoline (in the neighborhood of US $5.60 per gallon), that’s a particular “plus”.

Whether your tastes tend towards nightclubs, the theater, sports or enjoying the great outdoors on the fabulous beaches, parks and mountain activities, public transit can get you there. Service runs 21 hours a day (23 on some routes) and iconic elements like SkyTrain and SeaBus make it virtually a “destination transit system”.

SkyTrain Until last summer, this was the longest driverless automated metro rail system in the world (until Dubai opened its most recent line). SkyTrain was inaugurated as part of the 1986 World’s Fair (Expo 86), where the theme was transportation. Today, three SkyTrain lines serve Metro Vancouver.

Canada Line is the first taste of the transit system for many travelers – those arriving at Vancouver International Airport (YVR). You can get downtown in less than half an hour for CAN$8.75 or CAN$7.50 after 6:30pm and on weekends (including a one-time $5 surcharge for arriving travellers) – about a third of the cost of a cab ride.

Expo and Millennium Line These lines run 30 feet above ground (for the most part), giving a magnificent view of the region: the North Shore mountains, Mount Baker in Washington State, a panoramic view of the city of Vancouver and the Fraser River Delta and Gulf of Georgia from SkyBridge – the longest transit-only bridge in the world. It also doesn’t hurt that between them, the three SkyTrain lines take you to no fewer than 10 major shopping malls!

SeaBus SeaBus is particularly popular in the summer.

The trip across Vancouver harbour between downtown Vancouver and the North Shore is a thrill in itself. The 12-minute journey gives you mountain views, a sight of the working harbor, a unique look at Stanley Park. Watch for the occasional harbor seal popping up to check you out!

Get on the bus! With some 200 bus routes – including one of the last remaining fleets of zero-emission electric trolley buses in North America – it’s remarkably easy to get to attractions including:

Popular beaches

The Grammy-award-winning Vancouver Symphony and other Granville Street nightlife
The eclectic circus on Commercial Drive
The distinguished UBC Museum of Anthropology
Sports, including Whitecaps Major League Soccer and BC Lions football at Empire Field
The major league baseball stars of tomorrow at Nat Bailey Stadium
Great fishing – and great fish and chips and BC’s oldest brew pub -- at Horseshoe Bay

... and a whole lot more. Take pretty much any destination, plug it into the TransLink Trip Planner on the front page of the website, http://www.translink.ca, and get the directions you need.Single-ticket fares vary in price and are good for 90 minutes. DayPasses are available for CAN$9 for adults; CAN$7 for seniors and children over 5.
Photo courtesy TransLink
Click on photo to view full-size image

OPINION: Hotels Should Offer "Adults-Only" Accommodations

2011-03-24T15:44:00.000-07:00

Traveling, whether for business or pleasure, can be exhausting enough. And when you share the floor with fellow guests who are less than considerate, it’s all the worse. It’s time hotels became more proactive when placing their guests.

A good night’s rest when traveling, particularly when traveling on business, is essential. Far too often, noisy children in the halls or rooms nearby have interrupted or delayed my much-needed rest. . .and I know I’m not alone.

Hotels should adopt a simple remedy for this situation: separate the families with kids from adults traveling without children.

At colleges and universities, there are quiet dorms and there are “party” dorms. There’s no reason most hotels couldn’t separate their guests in a similar manner.

Here’s how this could easily be done in all but the smallest hotels:

Most hotels have more than one floor. Guests with children could be placed on “Family Floors” so families with kids are close to other families with kids. Family Floors would be BELOW the adult floors so that stomping, hall-running, bed-jumping, etc., would not radiate to the rooms below.

In larger hotels, entire wings could be designed “For Families” or for “Travelers Without Children”. At even the smallest hotels, families could be placed at one end of the building and adults at the other to keep them as far from each other as possible.

If hotels adopted this approach, brand reputation would quickly follow. In the cruise industry Carnival and Royal Caribbean have the reputation of appealing to younger cruisers while Seabourne, Crystal, and Cunard cater to the more mature traveler. So it could become with hotels.

To use the Starwood family as an example, Westins could cultivate the reputation of catering to traveling couples or business professionals while the W and aloft brands might become known as catering to younger, traveling families.

With a slow economy resulting in fewer trips and occupied room nights, this could be a way for hotels to lure more business (and adult leisure) travelers to their hotels.

It could also be beneficial to the hotel staff. In my observation, adult travelers (especially business travelers) tend to make fewer demands and leave larger tips than traveling families.

While on disaster relief duty, I spent approximately three months at one hotel that offered a “Manager’s Reception” including complimentary beverages every evening of the week. During the week, when the guest load was predominantly business travelers, our bartender Ben usually received $1 tip per drink; sometimes more if it was a more complicated drink than a vodka/tonic or rum and Coke.

On the weekends, when families with kids joined the reception, Ben worked especially hard to concoct special non-alcoholic drinks for the kids while pouring both alcoholic and non-alcoholic refreshments for their parents. Despite his obvious efforts to go above and beyond the call of duty, there were many times Ben received nothing. He got stiffed. Zero. Zip. Nada. Bupkis.

Despite that unfortunate example, I’m not suggesting families get second-class service; the reality, however, is that kids will be kids, no matter how hard parents may try. And while your child may indeed be a future Supreme Court Justice or President of the United States, I don’t want them keeping me awake (or waking me up) until they’re actually in office.

IBERIA AIRLINES: Business Class

2011-03-19T15:22:00.000-07:00

Who doesn’t like more legroom, better food, more entertainment options, and better service on long flights? I certainly do. I also enjoy the new experience of flying an airline I haven’t flown previously, so I was quite pleased when American Airlines put me in partner Iberia Airlines’ Business PLUS Class for my recent flight to Amsterdam.

In my estimation, the benefits of flying business class on international flights start with access to airlines’ airport lounges. Although my home airport has no such facility, I was able to relax, check e-mail, and enjoy a snack at American’s Admiral's Club Lounge during my three-hour layover at Chicago’s O’Hare airport as I waited for my flight to Madrid. That respite from the maddening crowds in the terminals helped start my trip on a high note.

Boarding the Iberia A340, I was directed to seat 4D, a typical business-class arrangement with a fully reclining seat, entertainment unit, and amenities kit. And while I would take advantage of those items as the flight wore on, I was eagerly anticipating tasting the food and experiencing the service.

The food and drink were quite good.

Service started with a beverage. Iberia’s wine list included three reds, two whites, Cava (the Spanish sparking wine), and liquors. A starter of chicken consommé accompanying a smoked salmon and Parmesan salad was followed by the passenger’s choice of a main course of chicken, fish, or pasta. Dessert offerings included a selection of cheeses, fruit, or ice cream. As we neared Madrid, we were also treated to a light desayuno (breakfast).

As with many long-haul carriers, Iberia has an area toward the rear of the Business PLUS section, which it calls simply “bar service”. Passengers can help themselves to beverages, finger sandwiches, and other appetizers as the mood strikes them.

In-flight entertainment included a selection of both audio programs and on-demand videos. I used my own ear buds and candidly don’t recall if there were typical airline headphones provided. American Airlines provides its business-class passengers with the use of Bose noise-canceling headphones, which are a real treat; nothing similar was offered by Iberia.

When it came time to snooze, I found that my seat did go fully flat, but only reclined to 170° - off level enough to leave me feeling like I was about to slide off. More important, the seat wasn’t very well padded and was not comfortable in that position. A reclining position more like one’s easy chair at home proved to be more to my liking, and actually allowed me to get a little sleep.

The amenities kit contained footies for in-flight wear, a bag for your street shoes, a shoehorn, earplugs, moisturizer and eau de toilette, lip balm, toothbrush and toothpaste. For comparison, American’s business-class amenities kit contains footies, eyeshades, earplugs, mints, tissue, toothbrush and toothpaste, Burt’s Bees lip balm and – thoughtfully – a pen for filling out the requisite immigration forms.

The service. Ah, the service.

To Iberia’s credit, we had four flight attendants for 42 business-class seats. That’s a very good ratio of FAs to passengers and, for many, it meant excellent service.

I wasn’t one of the fortunate.

I don’t know why it happens to me so often but if there’s one sourpuss among the in-flight crew, that’s the one who’ll be taking care of my area. You guessed it; that was the case on my flight to Madrid.

The business-class section of the A340 had two aisles with two flight attendants serving in each. The aisle on which I sat was tended by a very pleasant gentleman -- and a woman whose attitude projected very clearly that she’d rather be somewhere else. She didn’t bother to speak more than a very few words to those who didn’t speak Spanish, nor did she respond favorably when I tried to use the Spanish I do know.

Before you protest that I’m being too hard on her or perhaps speculate that her English might not have been that good, remember that FAs don’t just stumble on to overseas flights; such runs are among the most desirable. Considering that they know the destinations of the flights and, by extension, the other languages that will likely be spoken by the passengers, it does no one a service to bid on a flight to a country where you don’t speak the language. It certainly didn’t reflect well on the airline, either.

The airport lounge.

After arriving in Madrid, I checked in to Iberia’s lounge and headed straight for the showers. I’m always amazed at what a pick-me-up that is! The lounge had more munchies and alcohol available (like I needed any more of either at that point) as well as computers, comfortable seating areas, and other amenities including a conference room for guests’ use (including a humorous misspelling in the English translation). The staff members at the lounge were all cordial and helpful, making sure guests felt welcome and had what we needed.

On the shorter (2-1/2 hour) flight from Madrid to Amsterdam, I was provided with yet another meal which was less grandly presented but no less tasty. And on this flight, the FAs actually deigned to speak with their passengers, making the time go by more quickly.

Overall, I’d give Iberia’s Business PLUS cabin a grade of a B- to a B, largely because of the service and seating issues. Better than average, but far from “best in class.”

Click on photos to view larger size.
PHOTO CREDIT: Carl Dombek

This entry was originally posted November 5, 2009.

COMMUNIQUE FROM MOSCOW: Getting Around

2011-03-15T17:59:00.000-07:00

The dispatches from my traveling companions in Moscow continue.

The most recent entry, via Facebook:

I just navigated my first solo sight-seeing trip on a subway sign-posted only in Cyrillic. I now have SO much more sympathy for all the millions of folks who visit or move to the US each year and speak a language with a different alphabet.

The Moscow Metro opened in 1935 and has been called "the mother of all metros." Originally designed as "palaces for the people", many of the stations are architectural masterpieces, heavily themed with sculptures, reliefs and mosaics expounding the benefits of a healthy Communist life, including many images of soldiers, workers, tractor drivers, artists and sportsmen. Some Metro stations are quite deep and had been planned to have an alternate use: bomb shelters.

Though her experience thus far has been limited, my traveling companion concurred: The stations are impressive. I have yet to see some of the coolest ones...planning a tour later this week.

A friend responded with a bit of advice for an alternative mode of transportation:

Just make sure you are with a guy if you use the "unofficial" taxi system. A random car will stop if you look like you need a ride & you can negotiate a fare. I paid the same price in Moscow for a ride in a super-old Soviet Flintstones car as I did a brand new Volvo.

Travel web sites make the point that fares will vary, even among legitimate taxi companies in Moscow. The general rule is: the nicer the car, the higher the fare and vice versa. But, as we all know, to every rule there is an exception.

Caveat emptor certainly applies!

Photo from Google Images.
Click on photo to view full-sized image.

Thoughts on Worldwide Connectedness

2011-03-15T11:31:00.000-07:00

About 10 o'clock on a recent Saturday morning, I received a text message from Russia. One of my traveling companions texted to say that the flight had arrived safely in Moscow and that the travelers were now safely ensconced at their hotel.

By 11 o'clock Sunday, I was receiving photos.

While I was not surprised by the technological ease of connecting to a person who is literally on the other side of the planet, I found the scenario awe-inspiring for other reasons.

Growing up in the '60s and '70s, Russia was a part of the Soviet Union - a place physically, politically, and culturally remote to us Westerners. It was a place that relatively few Americans visited, and those who did either had or were perceived to have high-level connections that helped make the Byzantine arrangements necessary for a visit to become a reality.

During the 1980s, it began to appear that a new era of openness might be upon us. In 1987, then-President Ronald Reagan challenged Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev to tear down the Berlin wall as a symbol of Gorbachev's stated desire for increasing freedom in the Eastern Bloc. East Germany finally opened the Berlin Wall in late 1989 after intense East German protest, and began dismantling the wall by the end of that year. It began to appear that glasnost (openness), one of Gorbachev's watchwords for the renovation of Soviet politics and society, might be more than mere rhetoric.

Events that unfolded in 1991 shed new light behind what was then called the "Iron Curtain."

On August 19, a "committee" of Soviet officials attempted a coup d-etat against Gorbachev. At that time, I was a reporter for a Seattle radio station and was called out in the middle of the night to attempt to get some comments from Soviet sailors who were aboard the Academic Shirshov, a research vessel docked on the Seattle waterfront. A gesture of goodwill in the form of a package of American cigarettes offered to the sailor guarding the gangplank produced a couple of sailors whose English was excellent and who were willing to speak and have their comments recorded, even though they wanted to remain anonymous. However, my success was cut short when the ship's political officer set up barricades preventing further access to the sailors. Two days later, six passengers and crew deserted the ship and sought political asylum in the U.S.

These events were among many that formed my opinion about the dearth of openness in the Soviet Union and, fairly or otherwise, in Russia.

Now, though the Soviet Union has been gone for nearly 20 years, Russia is still far from being an open society and is still rigidly bureaucratic in many regards (see previous posts). So the fact that a text and photos could so easily be sent from that country was still a bit surprising.

However, it also provided a stark illustration of the power that today's technology can provide to the people. From the digital photos of the "tank man" stopping a phalanx of tanks in Tiananmen Square in 1989 that were e-mailed around the world to today's uncensored access to the thoughts, opinions, and actions of others literally anywhere in the world, technology has brought us an openness that, despite a few recent attempts by besieged governments, seems to be here to stay regardless of what set of borders or political boundaries you might find yourself within.

Photos from Russia

2011-03-13T11:19:00.000-07:00

The first photos from our friends' Moscow visit have come in.

With a good night's sleep under their belts, my traveling companions braved Moscow's barely-above-freezing temperatures to see their first sights. I think it's notable that the first photos they sent are the famous St. Basil's Cathedral and a Russian Starbucks!

Click on photos to view full-sized images.

Tracking Travel

2011-03-12T08:09:00.000-08:00

When friends and relatives are traveling by air, I often turn to a favorite on-line tool to follow their progress.

"FlightView" offers a convenient on-line tool for following flights in near-real time. Simply enter the airline and flight number when requested, and FlightView will generate a map of the flight's progress.

It also provides information about whether the flight is delayed, on time, or early, and presents a visual depiction of the route being flown.

Next time family or friends are flying, give it a try!

Click on thumbnails to view full-sized screen shots.

Off to Russia

2011-03-11T08:05:00.000-08:00

With newly-minted visas nestled safely in their passports, my erstwhile traveling companions leave today for Moscow.

The T/C who opted to "pay the professionals" to process her Russian visa application received an e-mail last Friday, advising her that her "visa application is being processed."

She confided in me that her first thought was, "What exactly does that mean?" "Being processed" could mean anything or it could mean nothing so, with a week to go, she held her breath.

On Monday, good news arrived via another e-mail; this time, from the travel agency which advised her that her visa had arrived.

So today, armed with the Traveler's Trilogy -- "money, tickets, passport" -- my T/Cs are off to LAX where they'll climb aboard an Aeroflot jetliner this evening and wing their way to Russia.

While foreign travel can be pretty demanding, they've agreed to provide updates (and perhaps photos) as they're able, which I will post here.

Pray for safe travels!

To Russia, With Love

2011-03-07T16:07:00.000-08:00

Good news from my erstwhile traveling companion: her visa to Russia came through!

As you know from previous posts, I decided not to pursue the offer of a trip to Russia because I was not at all certain I could obtain my Russian visa in the slightly less than three weeks before departure.

One of my potential traveling companions -- who is not encumbered by the need to "do it herself" -- decided to pay the freight and engage the services of an agency that deals regularly with Russian visa requests.

She received her visa with a little less than a week remaining before departure.

So хорошие перемещения, and stay tuned: more to follow.

Arranging Russian Travel: Another Perspective

2011-03-02T01:08:00.000-08:00

Ever the "do-it-yourself-er," I decided time was too short to successfully complete arrangements to travel to Russia. However, one of my potential travel companions was unencumbered by the need to "do it herself."

As the saga continues to unfold, here is her story. She opted to use a travel agent, who in turn uengaged a visa service: CIBT, the same service used by the employer of another travel companion.

She picks up the story: "Had I known, I would have gone straight to CIBT and saved $40. The travel agent prepared my stuff on Tuesday and sent it to CIBT; it arrived on Wednesday. On Thursday, CIBT (NOT the travel agent) called to tell me I was still missing something - I had to have a letter from the hotel, in addition to the invitation from the host company. CIBT offered to get it for $94, which I declined. The companion traveling on business got it for free and I e-mailed them a PDF Friday morning. The CIBT rep I spoke to, who was in San Francisco, said they would submit it to the consulate on Monday, and requested 4-day processing, so it would be ready Friday. So now I am waiting to hear if I am approved."

Understand that the Friday referred to is ONE WEEK before the anticipate departure. As adventuresome as I am, that's cutting it a little too close for comfort.

"In the meantime, I have been researching to make sure my own health care coverage works in Russia. (BLOGGER'S NOTE: see original post) I am also buying travel insurance in case all this falls through! Haven't yet gotten to do the fun stuff like research tourist attractions, but will ASAP."

More to follow. Stay tuned.

Rethinking Russia

2011-03-01T11:08:00.000-08:00

For the first time I can remember, I have decided to pass on a potential travel adventure.

As I detailed in a previous post, I was recently invited to take a trip to Moscow in the Russian Federation. At the end of a weekend filled with Internet research, I concluded my research had been, well, inconclusive.

Determined to get some answers straight from the babushka's mouth, I decided to head to the Russian Consulate. But bad weather in Seattle delayed my plans to consult the consulate in person by a couple of days and, by the time the weather broke, I concluded time was simply getting too short to be assured of getting the necessary documentation in time. Surprising both those who know me and myself, I decided not to take the trip.

Failure to get a visa in time would have meant more than mere disappointment; there would be a financial cost as well.

To get a Russian visa, one must have firm travel dates established - which means buying airline tickets - and firm plans for accommodations. Even buying travel/trip cancellation insurance doesn't usually cover the full cost. Hotel reservations can usually be canceled without paying a penalty but the hotel I was considering would have required a payment of about US$120 for its part in the visa approval process if the hotel stay wasn't completed. Quite understandable, but an expense nonetheless.

Further, because plans have to be locked down before a visa is issued, visits to Russia do not provide the traveler with much flexibility. Unlike Austria, where a visitor in Vienna might decide to hop a train and travel to Salzburg on short notice, you can't just get up one morning and decide you want to see St. Petersburg; you have to make specific plans including dates and lodging location(s) and obtain the necessary visas before you leave the U.S.

Throughout the process, I keep thinking of Clint Eastwood's 1982 movie Firefox, and the following scene where Eastwood's character Mitchell Gant is confronted by a Soviet authority who looks at Gant's passport, then declares, "Your paypahs ah NOT IN ORDAH!"

While I am more of a "do-it-yourself" type of traveler, one of my travel companions opted to turn the matter over to a travel agency that specializes in visits to Russia. She engaged an agency about the time I decided time was too short so, as events unfold, we'll see whether I opted out of a trip prematurely.

I have asked my once and future travel companions to stay in touch during their journey and perhaps to write some guest posts, which I will include as we're able.

Until then, Do svidaniya!

Weathered out of Russia

2011-02-24T07:55:00.000-08:00

The short amount of time left before my proposed trip to Russia has been shortened even more by inclement weather in Seattle, thus dimming prospects for success.

As I indicated in my previous post, I had obtained some conflicting/confusing information about requirements for obtaining a Russian visa and had planned to visit the Russian Consulate in Seattle on Tuesday to get the definitive word.

A quick phone call on Monday night revealed some interesting information: the Consulate sets certain hours for certain functions, and the hours for dealing with visa matters are from 2:00 to 4:45 p.m. It started snowing in Seattle about 1:30 on Tuesday, just about the time I'd planned to leave for downtown. Not wanting to get stuck downtown if it continued to snow, I decided to wait until Wednesday.

Wednesday, as it turned out, was worse.

Snow started to fall about 12:30 and continued to come down vigorously for well over an hour, leaving accumulations of slush on the streets and making driving tricky at best. Another day's delay.

Meanwhile, a proposed traveling companion decided to "pay the freight to go through a (Russian authorized) travel agent and just let the experts do it for" her. Probably a wise move.

More to follow.

Arranging Travel to Russia

2011-02-21T10:40:00.000-08:00

On Friday afternoon, right before the three-day President's Day Weekend began, I received a phone call inviting me to travel to Moscow in the Russian Federation. In the days that followed, I learned that arranging traveling to Russia is neither simple nor straightforward.

The proposed trip was only about three weeks away, so arrangements had to be made quickly. Official sources of information such as the Russian Consulate would be closed for the long weekend, so my initial research would be on the Internet.

One of the first things I did was look into flight schedules. That part was straightforward with major Western carriers including Delta (in partnership with KLM), Air France, Lufthansa, British Airways, and others offering plenty of options.

However (and I would encounter a number of "howevers" in my research), travelers to Russia must obtain a visa before departing the U.S. and the requirements for obtaining that visa is where things got a bit fuzzy.

Here's what I found.

Based on my Internet research, there are a number of moving parts involved in obtaining a visa. And, as one of my prospective fellow travelers put it, "Everyone I talk to tells me something different."

First, I visited RussianVisa.Org. It features a handy flow chart that appealed to my linear thinking, but which also revealed the first bit of conflicting/confusing information I would encounter. The box that applied to me said, "You are planning only one short visit (up to 14 days)" with an arrow leading to "You need a tourist visa!"

In fact, I was looking at a stay of about 16 days so I was immediately concerned. However (#2), clicking on the words "a tourist visa" took me to another site: VisitToRussia.com. There, I was advised that a "single-entry tourist visa" was valid "up to 30 days." Hmmm... Which was correct: up to 14 days, or up to 30 days?

Another frustrating facet of Internet research is that very few sites put dates on their material so a web surfer has no way of knowing how old the information might be. Especially in a place like Russia, where rules change frequently, that can be problematic.

The VisitToRussia site referred to a change made on April 13, 2009, so I concluded the information could be reasonably current. However (#3), the Russian visa requirements page had two dates that added to my confusion. One said simply, "As of June 15" (without a year); the other referred to an effective date of "April 15, 1999." I continued to wonder exactly how current and accurate this information was.

My next stop -- which perhaps should have been my first -- was the web page of the Russian Consulate in Seattle. This page's listing of visa requirements was only slightly different that those on VisitToRussia but, while VisitToRussia said only one signed passport photo would be required, the Consulate site required two photos. Since passport photos are provided in pairs, this was only a minor disconnect.

The Consulate's instructions included a link to a Russian visa application form (two completed copies required), and included a reference to a required "Confirmation of hotel arrangements from authorized Russian travel company, or directly from the Russian hotel, showing reference number and confirmation number for the visa." Other sites referred to "invitation and voucher," implying two separate documents would be required.

Next, I downloaded the Russian visa application form and, while filling it out, found reference to yet another required item: Medical coverage valid in Russia. That entry had two options: Official medical protection plan purchased, or Other policy attached for approval.

Two questions came immediately to mind: How much is an Official medical protection plan and where do I obtain it, and If I choose to submit my own medical policy "for approval," how long will that take?

Then, I turned my attention to the authorization from the authorized Russian travel company, or directly from the Russian hotel. A Google search for "authorized Russian travel companies in Seattle" was less than productive, so I went to the website of the hotel I was considering: The Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya.

The hotel's web page offers "Complementary (sic) VISA service" and provides the option of downloading the Visa Support Request Form. The completed form can then be faxed or e-mailed back to the hotel, which will then presumably send back the necessary Visa Support Documents. However (#4), the only option listed for getting the documents back to the guest was "by fax", which I don't have. I e-mailed the hotel on Saturday evening (Russian time) requesting more information about how to proceed; it's now Monday evening (Russian time) and I am still waiting for a response.

Planning travel to Russia on such (relatively) short notice also requires a step of faith because one must have transportation and lodging arranged before submitting the visa form because specific dates for arrival, departure, and lodging are required. That means spending money on air travel and for processing of the necessary paperwork including the Visa Support Request Form (about US$120), well before one has everything they need to apply for a Russian visa. A portion of that risk can be hedged by buying travel insurance, but read the fine print carefully to be sure you'll be covered if you simply can't get a visa in time.

Adding additional complication, one web site referred to a "five-day waiting period;" a traveler must have his or her visa at least five days before they're allowed entry to Russia. So add up the time to get the documents from the hotel or travel agency, to process the paperwork at the consulate, and add in the waiting period.

After obtaining the visa (hopefully with more than five days remaining before your travel), there are the Requirements For Foreign Citizens To Enter Russia (from VisitToRussia.com)

Tourist Travel to Russia
1. Passport must be valid 6 months beyond intended stay
2. Tickets and Documents for return or onward travel
3. Russian Visa is Required
4. Vaccination - None Required

While VisitToRussia does not mention it, another site referred to "prescription medications" and the requirement that travelers have the actual prescriptions for the medications they plan to bring into Russia. This means contacting my doctor's office and, in my case, getting copies of four prescriptions, likely at some cost for the office's efforts.

Yet another site mentioned that travelers will need to declare any amount of currency in excess of US$500 they bring in to Russia (currently about RUB15,000).

On Tuesday, after the three-day weekend, I plan go to the Russian Consulate and hopefully get answers to many of my unanswered questions. More to follow.

BURIEN, WA: Mark Restaurant & Bar

2011-02-15T16:53:00.001-08:00

Mark Restaurant (yes, singular) first came to my attention via one of those coupon packs that come in the mail; it contained a BOGO offer from Mark. When I learned the spot also participated in a frequent-diner program to which I belong, I had to try it.

Things To Do
Seattle

From the street, Mark Restaurant looks like a typical bar & grill. When you walk in the door, there's nothing to change that impression. In fact, the decor (if you can call it that) is eclectic shabby-industrial: concrete floors, posters advertising local goings-on taped to the exposed-brick wall, a bar that has seen better days, and a dining area where curtains hang from the high ceiling to create faux booths.

The menus match the rest of the place: both building and menus have apparently seen better days. But the items on the menu -- WOW!

Mark boasts a variety of items that you probably would have never have guessed: everything from nachos and wings to pizzas and burgers to filet mignon and lobster tail. On weekends, it offers brunch with Eggs Benedict, omelets, pancakes, biscuits & gravy, and other traditional breakfast fare.

On my first (and, to date, only) visit, I had a 1/2 Pear Beet Salad: roasted beets, pears,walnuts, and crumbled bleu cheese over mixed greens, served with balsamic vinaigrette dressing. I also enjoyed the appetizer of Toasted Ravioli: breaded five-cheese ravioli, fried and served with a house marinara sauce.

The food was freshly-prepared and tasty, the service was prompt and pleasant, and the prices were pretty reasonable.

Open for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch.

RECOMMENDATION: Worth a try (as long as you're not a stickler for ambiance)!

Photo credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-size image

HONOLULU: Hawaii Prince Hotel

2011-02-11T10:21:00.000-08:00

My recent stay at the Hawaii Prince Hotel is a case study in why savvy travelers know they must take a property's web site with a grain of salt.

When my roll of the dice with Priceline.com netted me a three-night stay at the Hawaii Prince Hotel (two rooms at $120 per night each), I was initially excited. On-line reviews were uniformly positive, and the web site showed a beautiful property in a great location.

The location is great and the property is beautiful, but there are some important exceptions.

The positives

The location of the Hawaii Prince, on the Waikiki Marina, is great for a number of reasons. The view is outstanding as you can see, and it's only a few blocks from the main area of Waikiki: close enough to be convenient, yet far enough away that you're out of the craziness when you return.

The service was excellent in almost all areas. From the valet and front desk attendants who greeted us upon arrival to the manager who came quickly to help when we swiped our malfunctioning key card so many times that we were automatically locked out, to the concierge, bartender, and cocktail waitress, everyone was excellent. The hotel also has a small gym, a self-service business center, a pool with a lovely view, and self-parking at a modest $15 per night.

The negatives

Rooms, however, were another matter.

While I had booked two separate rooms for my son and me, the hotel upgraded us to a Prince Suite: two separate bedrooms and baths with separate entrances and a shared living room. The extra space was great, the bathrooms were nicely done in tile and marble, and included higher-end amenities. Double-glazed windows kept the outside noise to a minimum.

The furnishings, however, were the problem. They were dated and worse, damaged as you can see in some of these photos. For a suite with a published rate of $770 per night, I expected much better. Even for $240 a night, it should have been better.

The next morning, I went to the front desk to discuss these shortcomings and was immediately offered a different room. High marks there. However, the front desk attendant admitted "We're a 20-year old hotel" and the new room might not be much of an improvement. While it did show less damage than our current room, the decor was still dated and worn, so we opted not to bother moving.

A subsequent conversation with another desk agent revealed that the hotel is planning to refresh the rooms "some time later this year." Unless you're a person for whom your surroundings who genuinely don't matter or believes, "We only sleep there," wait until the refresh is complete before booking the Hawaii Prince Hotel.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

Negotiating “The Negotiator”

2011-02-06T14:21:00.000-08:00

I can’t remember the last time I used Priceline.com. I know I did at some dim, distant point in the past and I recall I was not disappointed, but that’s literally all I remember.

A long-time family friend swears by Priceline so, after checking my usual venues and finding them either unavailable or too spendy, I considered giving it a(nother) try for a last-minute trip to Hawaii.

As I discussed the idea with my wife, a/k/a The Timid Traveler, you’d have thought we were recreating the company’s TV commercial:

She: “I’d offer $150 a night for a three-star room.”
He: “I was thinking more like $100 for a four- or five-star property.”
She: “I don’t think…”
He: “Wuss!”
She: “…you’re going to get anything…”
He: “Namby-pamby!”
She: “…you’ll be happy with…”
He: “Aim LOWER!”
She: “…for that price.”
He: “NOW you’re negotiating!”

Not exactly how it went, but pretty close. And, without saying it, my wife hit upon what is probably the deciding factor for many who choose not to use Priceline: once you’ve hit “send,” you’re committed.

A bit more willing to roll the dice than my wife, I decided to give it a shot.

Going to Priceline.com, I selected “Hotels.” I looked at the published prices and one three-star hotel at $129 a night initially looked attractive. However, users reviews on other web sites suggested that consistency was one of this hotel’s issues, so I decided to try “naming my own price” and see what came up.

The strategy and what I found:

In the “name your own price” section, you first choose the area(s) of the city in which you’d like to stay. Next, you select the “star level” you prefer, from one-star to five-star and resort hotels, depending on what’s available in the area(s) you’ve selected.

Enter the dates of your stay, the number of rooms, the amount bid, and (here’s the part that caused my stomach to tense up) your credit card number. Yikes! I couldn’t help thinking, “What if I don’t like it?”

For my own comfort level, I went to the extremes. I bid $120 a night for a five-star hotel. At this point in the process, a user can only choose one star level so, I reasoned, “Go for the gusto.”

Didn’t work. No takers.

However, I got a second bite at the apple. Priceline now gave me the option of adding more star levels to increase the available options, so I included four-star and resort hotels. I didn’t want to raise my bid yet or go as low as 3-1/2 stars, so I hit send and waited.

Within just a few seconds, I got a reply that the four-star Hawaii Prince Hotel, located right on Waikiki Marina, had accepted my offer. Now the knot in my stomach really tightened: “What’s wrong with the property that I got such a deal?”

While part of me didn’t want to know, I checked several user reviews on this hotel – not that I could do anything about it if I discovered bad news. Fortunately, the reviews were uniformly good to excellent, and all were quite recent. I also checked the hotel's web site and learned they were offering rooms directly for as low as $189 a night for a 420 square foot Oceanfront Marina room on the 5th to 9th floor with views of the ocean and Yacht Harbor. Based on that, the "worst case scenario," I'd just snagged a $69 per night (or 36%) savings -- perhaps more if they put us in rooms that are considered "more desirable."

So my son and I leave tomorrow and we’ll see for ourselves. I will report on what I find, and whether Priceline has just won another convert!

FIFE, WA: Warthog Barbeque Pit

2011-01-27T08:46:00.001-08:00

My wife and I found Warthog Barbeque Pit one afternoon, thanks to those ubiquitous “Gas, Food, Lodging” signs along I-5.

Fife Vacations

Hunger pangs were assaulting us as we returned from a shopping trip to Tacoma. The name was intriguing, so we pulled off the highway and almost literally followed our noses. Warthog Barbeque Pit is in an area so heavily industrial that we didn’t expect it to be open on a weekend. We needn’t have worried; its BBQ is so good, regulars flock from far and near to eat there.

Warthog offers slow smoked BBQ sandwiches, entrée meals, and signature burgers as well as salads and soups, so there’s literally something for every carnivore. (OK, the salads can be made sans meat if you insist). Beverages include sodas, bottled water, iced tea, and bottled beer. We’ve enjoyed pulled chicken and sliced, smoked turkey sandwiches, fries, and their mixed green salad with smoked turkey.

The one area I wish they’d improve is their BBQ sauce; it’s a bit too sweet for my taste and is also lacking in bite, either from spices or vinegar. It’s not that it’s bad; it’s just that more options would be better.

The interior of the Warthog Barbecue Pit is small, and there are fewer stadium seat cushions than there are seats in the wooden booths. And if you’re offended by the presence of stuffed animals, stay outside if the weather is good (or in the car if it’s not) and have someone else bring your order out to you.

Regardless, if it’s good BBQ you seek, you owe it to yourself to check out the Warthog Barbecue Pit in Fife. It’s worth the trip.

RECOMMENDATION: Must try!

Photo credit: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-size image

TOP DC HOTELS: Conde Nast Got It Wrong!

2011-01-14T13:27:00.000-08:00

In its Gold List 2011, Conde Nast Traveler magazine got it wrong when it ranked the top hotels in our nation's capital.

Conde Nast lists four hotels as its top picks for DC:

St. Regis (overall score: 90.1)
Ritz-Carlton (overall score: 88.9)
Hay-Adams (overall score: 88.4)
Willard Intercontinental (overall score: 88.1)

I've visited all four hotels and stayed at three. Although only two points separate the "top" from the "bottom" on Conde Nast's list - hardly enough to quibble about - my list would rank them differently:

Hay-Adams
Ritz-Carlton (with a caveat)
Willard Intercontinental
St. Regis

Recently, I considered all four hotels for a meeting I was planning. I found the St. Regis the least desirable, primarily because I found the service less attentive than at the other hotels. In addition, the facility makes much of its on-site restaurant, Adour, created with chef Alain Ducasse but it is inexplicably closed for dinner on Sunday and Monday nights. You can guess which nights I was there...

The Hay-Adams is my favorite for three primary reasons: the service is gracious, personal, and unparalleled; it's small, intimate, and charming; and it's directly across Lafayette Park from the White House.

The Willard Intercontinental and the Ritz-Carlton are tied for second in my opinion. The Willard has tons of history and is right around the corner from the White House but, thanks to President Andrew Jackson who reputedly had the Treasury building built where it is to block his view of the U.S. Capitol, the Willard has no view of the White House. It's also much larger, less personal, and a bit more gaudy than The Hay-Adams, though still very nice.

The Ritz-Carlton in Georgetown is unique because it was built in the area's old incinerator and carries on the theme throughout the hotel. Service is excellent, as is the food at the on-site restaurant. The one drawback is the location: Georgetown. Georgetown is a delightful place, but guests at the Ritz-Carlton won't have the same experience of being in the center of Washington action as guests at the other three hotels.

You can click on the highlighted hotel names above to read my previous reviews of three of the properties.

With all said, however, you probably won't have a bad experience at any of the four. But if you've never stayed at any of them, do yourself a favor and make The Hay-Adams your first choice.

TUKWILA, Wa: Miyabi Sushi

2011-01-11T14:14:00.000-08:00

With a taste for miso soup and perhaps some tempura, I ventured in to Miyabi one recent afternoon. What a delightful little place!

Nestled in a smallish space next to Half Price Books in a strip mall that also houses my favorite Thai restaurant (Bai Tong), and Pho Tai, Miyabi would be an easy place to pass by. That would be unfortunate.

Upon entering, the hostess greeted me in Japanese – a harbinger of the place’s authenticity.

Settling into my seat at a cozy table for two, I was immediately offered green tea, which I sipped while perusing the menu. A few moments later, I was asked if I was ready to order. I said “no.” A brief time later, after I had set my menu down to indicate I’d reached my decision, a second waiter came by and took order. This teamwork by the staff is impressive and smoothly executed. It seemed any of the staff could be asked for anything, and they were more than happy to oblige.

For lunch, a bento box lunch seemed just the thing. I ordered the chicken teriyaki with tempura. All such boxes come with miso soup, a small salad, rice, and a couple of pieces of ubiquitous California roll, so I anticipated a pleasant lunch indeed.

While waiting for my food, I had the chance to look around and to listen.

The décor is nicely done: it conveys an authentically Japanese feel without indulging in the kitsch factor present in so many themed restaurants. Listening to other diners’ conversations, it seemed that many had spent time in Japan for various reasons, giving me another clue that I was about to have an authentic experience.

It was exactly that.

The miso soup was served without a spoon, in the authentic Japanese manner. Sipping from the bowl is not rude; it’s the way it’s done.

Shortly after I’d finished my soup, the bento box came and it was perfect! The small salad of greens and noodles was lightly dressed and tasty. The tempura was fresh and still piping hot, so I tucked into that before it had the chance to cool. The chicken teriyaki was done perfectly: the chicken was moist and tender, without a hint of the rubbery texture often found in production line chicken. The rice, with a light dusting of black sesame seeds, and the California roll were also excellent. Additional wasabi, which I needed to sate my hot tooth, came quickly.

Total bill: $10.95 plus tip. I’ll definitely be back.

RECOMMENDATION: A must!

SEATAC, WA: Copperleaf Restaurant - A "Must" for Foodies

2010-12-30T13:17:00.001-08:00

The Copperleaf Restaurant in the Cedarbrook Lodge is a welcome – and overdue -- addition to the dining scene in south King County. Now that I’ve visited a second time, I say it’s a “must” for foodies.

SeaTac Vacations

On a recent rainy night, as my wife and I were being seated at a table near the crackling fire, I thought, “This could be the start of a beautiful evening!” How right I was!

We started with a pair of Washington wines: a Sauvignon Blanc for my bride and a Pinot Gris for me. While the Sauv Blanc was pleasant with hints of citrus, it was the Pinot Gris and its fuller body that we both preferred.

The cuisine was impressive indeed: well prepared and artfully presented. Given the credentials in the kitchen, I should not have been surprised.

Executive Chef Mark Bodinet’s resume includes five years at the vaunted French Laundry in northern California – an impressive credential indeed. The culinary director, Roy Breiman, came from the Salish Lodge and several servers and other staff followed him, including our server Adam.

For appetizers, my wife ordered a creamy chestnut soup with brown butter financier, black truffles, and nutmeg crème fraiche. I had the late-harvest figs with marinated fennel, cullatello proscuitto, wild arugula, and toasted coriander. The small, football-shaped rolls accompanied by butter topped with sea salt disappeared, but replacements arrived with equal speed.

The main courses were delicious. My wife’s seared scallops were perfectly cooked, with a nice crust on the outside, warm throughout, and without a hint of being undercooked. I opted for the Shriner’s Farm fallow venison with gingerbread, sugar pie pumpkin, chestnuts, and Cascade huckleberries. The two medium-rare medallions were tender and tasty, with just a hint of the game flavor that makes such meats so enjoyable.

During my previous visit, I perused the bar menu and sampled a couple of their signature drinks; both the nibbles and the sippables were quite inventive. The small bar boasts some creative cocktails, including a Bloody Mary made with Bakon vodka. (What else would you use a bacon-flavored vodka for, I ask you?)

Despite its size, the bar boasts an impressive variety of West Coast wines, from Seattle to Oregon’s Willamette Valley to California – but not the “grocery store” variety you’ll find everywhere; they’re more along the lines of Hop Kiln Winery, a small establishment which few winebibbers beyond the locals know.

Copperleaf is a small restaurant – only 34 seats, not counting the bar – so reservations will become more necessary as word of this delightful find gets out.

With outstanding food, excellent service, and prices that are quite reasonable by fine-dining standards, I wouldn’t be at all surprised if we became regulars!

SEATTLE: Greenlake Wines + Wine Bar

2010-12-29T08:17:00.001-08:00

I love wine. I love talking about it, drinking it, learning more about it. So imagine my surprise when I found out this wonderful little wine bar is run by an old colleague from my radio days!

Seattle Vacations

Greenlake Wines + Wine Bar is the creation of Richard Kinssies, former wine columnist for the now-defunct Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Richard and I worked together in the late '80s when he hosted a talk show called "Inside Dining" on news-talk radio station KING-1090. (I was the voice who said, "Go ahead, caller. You're on the air!")

One recent evening, I made my way to Greenlake Wines to say hello, have some nibbles, and reminisce. Once the reminiscing was complete, talk turned to -- what else? -- wine.

Richard's knowledge of wine is encyclopedic, and it shows in the large selection of wines on sale by the bottle and by the glass. But please, don't be intimidated. He's a great host, easy to talk to, and will tell you as much (or as little) as you want to know.

Of course, he has some higher-end offerings (both by the glass and by the bottle), but I was pleasantly surprised by the plentiful selection of some very good wines in the $10 - $15 per bottle price range. And Richard does not charge a corkage fee, so if you decide you just can't wait to get home to enjoy your purchase, pull up a chair or a bar stool and enjoy a glass right there.

My sipping started with a glass of 2009 "Duet," a blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc from the Plaza Winery in the Yakima Valley. The mild sweetness of the toasted spiced pecans from the bar menu was the perfect accompaniment to this slightly sweet white.

Next, I tried a 2007 Richard Kinssies Tempranillo from the Yakima Valley's Crawford Vineyard (yes, his name in on the label!). Very smooth, medium-bodied, and well-priced. At $15, I had to bring a bottle home.

Feeling the need for something more to eat, I ordered a Cremini Panini, a sandwich layered with cremini mushrooms and brie cheese, then toasted on the panini press. The flavor of the gooey brie and the earthiness of the mushrooms were a perfect accompaniment to the 2007 Chateau De Valcombe Syrah/Grenache blend from France's Rhone Valley. Slightly fuller than the Tempranillo, is was no less smooth and the perfect way to cap off the evening. At $12 per bottle, it had to come home too.

Greenlake Wines + Wine Bar is located at the intersection of N. 80th St., Interlake Ave. N., and Green Lake Way N. It opens at noon, seven days a week, and Richard is generally there in the evenings. Tell him Carl sent you!

SEATTLE: Queen City Grill

2010-12-23T15:22:00.000-08:00

With the holidays (and the holiday spirit) upon us, my wife and I decided one recent evening that I would meet her after work for dinner at one of downtown Seattle’s fine restaurants.

We had originally planned to dine at a restaurant that has been a part of the Seattle scene for several years but which we have somehow managed to miss. Unfortunately, we’re still missing it but fortunately, we’ve discovered another delightful dining spot.

Based on the glowing recommendation of two colleagues, we abandoned our original plan and headed for Queen City Grill at 1st and Blanchard. Were we ever glad we did!

Seattle Vacations

Leaving the car parked, we hopped a northbound bus to the edge of Seattle’s ride-free zone, then walked a couple of blocks to the restaurant. I must admit that, upon arrival, the “seafood” sign on the awning gave a moment of pause, as neither my wife nor I was really in the mood for fish. We needn’t have worried; the menu at Queen City Grill was not huge, but had great variety.

Adding to that, we were still in time for “happy hour” which, at QCG, extends to tables as well.

We started our evening with cocktails: she, a vodka martini and I, a Maker’s Mark Manhattan. The vodka martini was on the happy hour special; my “call” Manhattan was not. Regardless, both were well prepared at the bar, then poured tableside by our waiter.

After sipping our beverages for a few minutes, we decided to order a couple of the appetizer specials: the bruschetta (Roma tomatoes, garlic, basil and goat cheese) and the Oaxacan prawns. The bruschetta was delicious, but the prawns were remarkable! Their smoky flavor from the grill was accented by a jicama and red onion salad and a delicious dipping sauce of herbs and cumin. Our waiter told us the chef was from Oaxaca, so the dish was likely quite authentic. Authentic or not, I can confirm it was delicious!

With the appetizers and the proffered bread and butter having taking the edge off, my wife and I decided to split the roasted beet salad (sautéed beets, mixed greens, Rogue River blue cheese and candied pecans) and the rack of lamb. The salad, with its vinaigrette dressing, and the lamb (cooked a perfect medium-rare) were both exactly what the doctor ordered. And the kitchen split both items for us, giving us perfect portions of salad and lamb with mashed potatoes and green beans. As it was, we each got three chops; six would have clearly been overkill. Our waiter brought two glasses of a 2007 Argentine Malbec, which accompanied the lamb perfectly.

While we opted for the lamb, Queen City Grill does have abundant seafood (crab cakes, halibut, trout, and tuna), chicken, duck, beef, and risotto to choose from. And with a capacity of around 75 people, the atmosphere is cozy and intimate – just the thing for passing a cool, damp, Seattle winter evening.

We will definitely be back!

FIFE, WA: For Future Reference

2010-12-04T12:42:00.000-08:00

If you're looking for a great burger, a little drive-up in Fife has what USA Today pronounced "The best burger in Washington."

I learned about the Pick-Quick drive-in in Fife in late November just days before it was to close for its annual two-month hiatus, so I hurried out one overcast Monday to see what the fuss was about.

Pick-Quick has been a fixture at 4306 Pacific Highway East for some time and my first bite of the double burger with cheese helped me understand why. It was moist and juicy, the way a burger should be. (By the way, the "double" is only a quarter pound of meat before cooking, so don't be overly intimidated.) And the folks behind the counter kept the mayo and onions off as I'd requested.

The fries were underwhelming. They were hot and came with plenty of ketchup but weren't nearly crisp enough; in fact, I'd call them downright soggy. But the burger...

Pick-Quick offers no inside dining. There are numerous picnic tables set up on the grass for use when the weather is good. And there's always the inside of your car.

Pick-Quick is closed each December and January. But come February 1, they'll be back, as will the lines. And I'll be in one of them!

RECOMMENDATION: Worth a visit.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

MIAMI BEACH: No tipping necessary (it's included!)

2010-12-02T15:51:00.000-08:00

Most of the bars and restaurants in Miami Beach add an automatic gratuity to their checks. Even though I'm currently in the service industry, I'm not sure I think such a practice would be a good idea elsewhere.

Miami Beach Vacations

An automatic gratuity makes some sense here in Miami. The area hosts a relatively large number of European tourists and in Europe, service staff receive a substantially higher base wage than their counterparts receive here, so tipping is far less a part of the culture than in the U.S. Many of those European tourists failed to inform themselves about the local culture (which is always a good idea when traveling to another country) while others simply refused to do here what they don't do at home. As a result, food service workers were bearing the combined brunt of low base wages AND low tips. In self-defense some years ago, food and beverage establishments started adding an automatic gratuity of between 15 - 18%.

It may surprise you to learn that, as someone currently on the receiving end of gratuities, I'm not sure I support instituting this practice elsewhere.

Over the last couple of days, I've patronized more than a half-dozen establishments and all but two added an automatic gratuity.

While management will remove the automatic gratuity if requested, service would have to be truly abysmal for me to make such a request. But the counterpoint is also true: service would have to be absolutely stellar for me to add much of an additional tip.

In my limited experience, I believe this practice leads to mediocre service, which is what I experienced in all cases except one. In that singular instance, my waitress had recently moved to Miami from the Midwest and was no doubt displaying the Midwest values she'd brought with her, and which hadn't yet been eroded by her environment.

The reason to expect mediocrity is simple, really: if your waitperson is virtually guaranteed 15 - 18%, what's their incentive to go above and beyond the call of duty? And if you, the customer, are automatically assessed a 15 - 18% service charge, what's your incentive to leave anything in excess of that?

True, an automatic service charge would prevent instances like the time I poured $75 worth of drinks for two couples who then left me a $2 tip. But it might also preclude other, more positive instances, including the fellow who felt I'd taken particularly good care of him and left a $20 tip with his $26 check.

Maybe I'd make a bit more money if a gratuity was automatic, or perhaps I wouldn't. And while I might be spared the irritation that goes along with being undertipped, I might also be deprived of the satisfaction and validation (shown through a generous gratuity) that I truly had taken excellent care of my guests.

MIAMI BEACH: Beverly Hills has NOTHING on this neighborhood!

2010-12-02T15:09:00.000-08:00

If you thought the words "self-absorbed," "plastic," and "materialistic" applied primarily to bastions like Beverly Hills, think again.

In Miami, apparently even the mannequins have implants!

REBOOKING: When your flight isn't flying

2010-12-01T15:39:00.000-08:00

When my flight from DFW to Miami was delayed a second time due to mechanical problems, I decided to see if some oft-cited advice worked. I'm happy to report: it did!

My flight was supposed to leave DFW for Miami at 2:10 p.m. Mechanical problems and the associated paperwork kept us at the gate for more than an hour beyond our scheduled departure time, but we were allowed to push back at about 3:30. We taxied to a holding area where, as a well-seasoned private pilot, I'm concluding our pilot was running through his check list.

At about 4:00 o'clock, he came on the P/A system and announced that, in his judgment, the plane wasn't safe to fly and that we'd be returning to the gate. (Kudos to him for making a difficult decision, BTW.)

While a number of my fellow passengers used the time to tell friends and relatives about the delay, I chose to act on advice I'd heard several times over the years: Don't wait to get back into the terminal, then stand in line with 150+ of your fellow passengers to rebook. Instead, I called the airline's reservations desk, explained the problem, and was confirmed on the next regularly scheduled flight out before we got back to the gate!

It was 4:30 when I finally got off the plane but I had a confirmed seat on the 6:30 flight, so I used the time to have a bite to eat at the Admiral's Club, check my e-mail, and post to my blog.

My original flight may have ultimately left a bit earlier than 6:30, but there was no way of knowing that as we were taxiing back to the gate. And being one who likes to have things settled, I felt more comfortable opting for a seat on a different flight than rolling the dice and sticking with an airplane that admittedly was experiencing "issues."

If you're similarly inclined and find yourself in a similar situation, use the time -- and that ubiquitous cell phone -- to your advantage and call your airline's reservations desk (or Frequent Flyer desk if you're a member). You can bring your friends and family up to date later, after you've secured a seat.

The increasing indignity of air travel

2010-12-01T11:18:00.000-08:00

As a frequent air traveler, I fully understand the value and wisdom of following the rules. But the rules are constantly changing.

This morning, I was subjected to a pat-down, apparently as penance for the cardinal sin of failing to completely empty my pockets and put everything in those grey plastic bins for an x-ray look-see. Not just metallic items, as we've had to do for years. Everything. Including my handkerchief. And I have a cold. You get the picture.

The reason the pat down was necessary, I was told, was that I'd been "randomly selected" for a full body scan and my pockets "had to be empty for the scan to be effective."

With all due respect, bullshit.

Here's where Demon Inconsistency creeps in.

The last time I went through a full-body scan was at the Indianapolis airport. During that scan, I was required to hold my wallet in front of me as the scan was completed.

Apparently, the rules are different at SeaTac airport. Or they've changed in the last 20 minutes.

I know. I know. Being unpredictable is part of the strategy for keeping terrorists off-balance. But come on! At some point, it becomes unproductive and just plain annoying.

I would argue that we reached that point long ago.

After all, it was fellow passengers who subdued shoe bomber Richard Reid and a few others with nefarious intent, not the minimum wage rubes who work for the TSA.

Not that I'm advocating the abdication of all security measures in favor of trusting in the largess of our fellow travelers. But if we keep going down this path, the logical question must be, "What's next?" A requirement that we shed all of our street clothes and don paper suits before we're allowed to fly? Please don't make the mistake of thinking it's all that far-fetched.

Aldous Huxley and George Orwell were right: it IS a brave, new world and Big Brother IS watching!

KENT, WA: Wild Wheat Bakery

2010-09-30T13:36:00.006-07:00

As the quest for the best breakfast continues, the latest contender is the Wild Wheat Bakery in historic Kent.

Kent Vacations

The Wild Wheat Bakery sits on the corner of 1st Avenue S. and Gowe St., right in the heart of the city’s historic district…and right next to the train tracks. On my first visit, the sudden sound of a train rushing by almost made me drop my coffee, which would have been a shame considering they roast their own at the Wild Wheat Bakery, and it’s quite good!

Entrée items are tasty as well.

On my first visit I had the cheese blintz. Topped with warm fruit compote (and syrup on the side if your sweet tooth requires it), this is true comfort food. The blintz was tender and the cheese filling sweet but not too sweet. I had the half-order – a single blintz – which proved to be more than adequate; I definitely did not leave the table hungry. A full order would have been more than enough to share.

Second time around, I opted for the Eggs Benedict, which the menu description made clear was the bakery’s own take on this breakfast classic. Instead of English muffin, the eggs were served on top of house-baked Swiss peasant bread. In addition, chopped green onions and tomatoes were sprinkled on top of the Hollandaise, making the presentation more colorful.

However, I found the Swiss peasant bread more difficult to cut than an English muffin, and the onions and tomatoes introduced some tastes I thought distracted from – and overpowered – the rest of what is usually a delicate dish. Finally, I thought the Hollandaise sauce needed more lemony punch than it provided. If you’re in the mood for classic Eggs Benedict, this probably won’t hit the spot but it might work for the more adventurous.

The dining room tends to be quite loud. On my first visit I was seated near a large and very vocal party, which no doubt added to the noise level. However, the place was considerably emptier on my second visit but was still pretty noisy. Wild Wheat is probably not the place to go if you’re looking for a quiet little place for breakfast.

Service was quite good on both visits. The wait staff backs each other up, so your coffee cup might be refilled or your order brought to you by someone other than your server; a good thing that usually means slightly quicker service.

Not that Wild Wheat Bakery is a fast-food joint by any means. Linger if you like, but they won’t make you late if you’re on your way to the rest of your day. With many menu items yet to be sampled, I’ll definitely be back. Maybe I’ll see you there!

RECOMMENDATION: Worth a visit.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

AUBURN, WA: The Sun Break Cafe

2010-09-24T11:24:00.003-07:00

Now that we've settled in the Seattle area, the search is on for great breakfast restaurants. Among the potentials I'm trying out, one has clearly made the cut: the Sun Break Cafe in Auburn.

Auburn Vacations

Conveniently located a block from the Auburn Sound Transit terminal at 22 A St. SW, the Sun Break Cafe has earned a loyal following of commuters and locals alike ... and it's easy to see why.

The Sun Break Cafe is just your basic restaurant; nothing fancy, but not too spartan, either. The wait staff is young and energetic -- and as a result may lack some polish -- but that's part of the draw, as is the tongue-in-cheek notation on the menu that coffee is charged based on how long you sit there.

The other part is clearly the food.

Freshly prepared, the portions are quite generous. On my first visit, I had the potato pancakes -- and could only manage about half of the order! As you can see, there was plenty; too bad I was eating alone. And I thought I would be eating light by not ordering the chicken-fried steak.

On my next visit, I went for it: the "half-order" of the chicken fried steak proved to be more than enough to keep me going all the way until dinner (well, almost). It was prepared nicely, with a crunchy coating covering a tender piece of meat. Though it could have used a bit more pepper for my taste, that was easily remedied with the black pepper and Tabasco(C) on the table.

The coffee was also pretty good for a diner. Not Starbucks, but not the weak colored water so many places serve. And the staff is excellent at keeping your cup full.

The Sun Break Cafe is decidedly low-tech: wait staff write your order on a plain piece of paper for the kitchen to read (no computers here), then present that slip to you as your bill.

If you're alone, bring a newspaper; I doubt if they offer free WiFi, but that's not why you go to the Sun Break Cafe. It's for the food, and I have yet to be disappointed!

RECOMMENDATION: Worth a visit, but HURRY! Word is the building is to be purchased by the city and torn down in the near future.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

LONDON: Savoy Hotel Update

2010-08-08T08:34:00.008-07:00

At long last, the date has been set for the grand reopening of London's venerable Savoy Hotel!

The Savoy Hotel will welcome its first guest in nearly three years on October 10, 2010. The most recent guest checked out in December 2007, immediately before the start of a project that was initially expected to take a little more than a year.

As I reported in my previous post, The Savoy closed at the end of 2007 when its operators embarked on a restoration programme which they knew was "one of the most ambitious undertaken in Britain.” The expectation was to reopen the hotel in the spring of 2009; however, as anyone who has tackled home repairs of any magnitude can confirm, things rarely go precisely as planned. That is even more true when working with a building more than 120 years old. Workers ran into things that hadn’t been anticipated, and plans had to be modified to fit the newly discovered realities.

Now, though, it appears that the hurdles have been overcome and agents will begin taking room reservations for The Savoy on Tuesday, August 10.

I am excited to see how this grande dame has been restored; I am quite certain it will have been worth the wait!

PHOTO CREDIT: Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-sized image.

ASHLAND, OR: Amuse Restaurant

2010-07-28T08:36:00.001-07:00

Located in the heart of Ashland, Amuse (with the French pronunciation "ah-MOOZ") is a wonderful place for a full dinner or light bites.

During our June visit to Ashland, my wife and I strolled the main street and looked at many restaurant menus before popping into Amuse. Even without a reservation, we were seated quickly, though I wouldn't risk that during high season; reservations are recommended.

Service was excellent: attentive without being obtrusive, and with knowledgeable people to proffer recommendations.

We ordered one of the many local wines for our starter, the carrot and leek soup for our appetizer and decided to split a rib eye for our entree. What followed was quite a pleasant surprise indeed.

Our desire to keep calories and the budget in check didn't deter the staff at Amuse one bit. Before the appetizer arrived, they brought a plate of amuse-bouche - bite-sized hors d'œuvre as a greeting from the Chef de Cusisine - which were absolutely delightful.

The carrot and leek soup arrived shortly thereafter. It was perfectly seasoned and presented at precisely the right temperature: neither too hot nor too cool.

The rib eye was also perfectly cooked, to our order of medium-rare. Often, restaurants slightly undercook expensive cuts of meat as undercooking can be easily fixed by a few more minutes on the fire while overcooking requires a new piece of meat. Not the case at Amuse. Sides of potatoes and veggies were equal to the protein, and rounded out the dish.

Not that we were done; the staff would have none of that. Though we opted to pass on dessert, we were nonetheless plied with more little morsels that would slake our craving for sweets without indulging in one of Amuse's luscious-looking full-sized after dinner offerings.

We left feeling both quite satisfied and well looked-after. We highly recommend Amuse and, next time we're in Ashland, we'll certainly return!

RANDOM THOUGHT:Hotel Housekeeping

2010-07-18T08:52:00.003-07:00

A rather bizarre thought occurred to me this morning.

As they have for many years, a number of hotels put paper caps on top of water glasses and coffee mugs to indicate they are clean and ready to use, like to one at right. Why, then, don't they still put that paper strip on the toilet seat that used to read, "Sanitized for your protection"?

To quote George Carlin, "These are the kind of thoughts that kept me out of the really good schools."

SAN FRANCISCO: The Westin St. Francis

2010-07-17T16:54:00.003-07:00

The Westin St. Francis is considered one of the grande dames of San Francisco hotels. My wife and I spent two nights at this venerable old hotel during our current and ongoing road trip.

The St. Francis has hosted kings and presidents, presidential hopefuls, movie stars and other celebrities, and countless others. Its service is as efficient and gracious as you would expect from a hotel of its reputation.

While the hotel is well over 100 years old, the rooms are clearly contemporary in size and amenities. They feature the Westin Heavenly Bed and Heavenly Bath, sitting area, flat-screen TVs, writing desk, Internet access, and a minibar. Many -- if not most -- offer views of the city.

The history of the St. Francis is quite fascinating and makes for an even more interesting visit, especially for history buffs. The hotel was built by the guardians of the Charles Crocker family, whose collective vision was to make San Francisco the "Paris of the West." The hotel, which cost $2.5 million dollars and took two years to build, was completed in 1904 -- just two years before the historic 1906 San Francisco earthquake.

Fire destroyed the interior of the hotel's original 250 rooms following the earthquake, but a temporary hotel of 110 rooms was erected in Union Square within 40 days of the quake to house the building's residents, earning Union Square the nickname "Little St. Francis." Thus, the St. Francis continued as a focal point of the city.

The hotel refurbished its interior and re-opened late in 1907, with 450 guest rooms.

Today, in addition to the guest rooms, there's a health club and retail shops on premises. Coffee and bar service available in the lobby, the Clock Bar and restaurant Michael Mina off the lobby.

Because it's located in the heart of San Francisco, the St. Regis cannot be described as inexpensive. Our two weekday room nights were a birthday gift from my sister and brother-in-law so I can't state definitively what the rates would have been but, at this writing, SPG.com offers rates of about $250 per night for a room with a "city and bay view", which is well in line for a hotel of this caliber in a city like San Francisco. During the week, the rate is closer to $300 per night. Due to its location, valet parking is the only parking option available - at $50 a night PLUS $7 tax. Hospitality taxes in the City by the Bay are currently 15.5%, which is anything but hospitable.

In addition to elegant surroundings and impeccable service, there are many things to recommend about the St. Francis including its proximity to a number of fine restaurants, ease of hopping on to the famous cable cars, etc. Just be prepared to pay the freight.

Photos by Carl Dombek
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SAN FRANCISCO: Oriental Pearl

2010-07-01T08:06:00.003-07:00

During a visit to San Francisco to celebrate our birthdays, my wife and I got a taste for Chinese food. The concierge at our hotel recommended the Oriental Pearl.

After a $9 cab ride from our hotel on Union Square, we alighted in front of the entrance to this nondescript restaurant on Clay Street and immediately spied the visage of Rachael Ray who, we learned, had featured the establishment on $40 a Day. It's also Zagat-rated, has earned a AAA Diamond rating, and is mentioned in the Michelin guide in addition to a plethora of local publications.

After a climb up stairs to the second floor, we learned for ourselves why it's so highly recommended.

The service was excellent. We were greeted and seated immediately (our concierge had booked a reservation for us); menus were provided and drink orders were taken promptly.

We opted for the set menu consisting of a house special dim sum combination appetizer, hot & sour soup, almond chicken with cashews, sweet & sour pork, and
Oriental Pearl fried rice. All items were freshly prepared and presented as proper courses: first the dim sum snacks, followed by the hot & sour soup, then the main dishes.

Each item was very tasty. However, I requested more rice wine vinegar to add a bit of additional "sour" to the soup and our waitperson was more than happy to oblige. The fried rice was a departure from the traditional: it contained small, tender shrimp in addition to the bits of pork and egg, but no detectable soy sauce. I have to confess I missed it.

The pace was leisurely; we spent easily an hour and a half enjoying ourselves before being presented with the fortune cookies and the bill.

The Oriental Pearl is not cheap (but few things are in San Francisco). Our combination plate dinner was $19.75 per person; others were pricier. But it was an experience I'm pleased to recommend and will be well worth repeating next time we're in the City by the Bay.

ASHLAND, OR: The Ashland Springs Hotel

2010-06-14T15:29:00.002-07:00

A delightful, historic hotel in the heart of Ashland, which I am pleased to recommend highly.

As you know if you follow this blog regularly, I have mixed feelings about historic hotels. While the preservationist in me appreciates the fact that these often-lovely old buildings are saved from the wrecking ball, the state of the art when they were built often falls far short of what 21st-century travelers expect, resulting in a less than satisfactory guest experience.

The Ashland Springs Hotel is, in most regards, a pleasant exception.

A two-year restoration project transformed the former Mark Antony into a property reminiscent of small european hotels, so there's no denying the rooms are small. Ours was 10' x 14', compared to 12' x 20' at the Hilton Garden Inn. However, they are well-appointed with an armoire, desk, comfy bed and, importantly, an updated bathroom. Some have views of the city and the valley beyond.

The bath, while also smaller than many modern baths, have been updated and are closer to what one might find in a contemporary hotel and are equipped with hair dryers and high-end amenities.

Service is very good. We arrived in late afternoon and inquired about a room without having made a reservation. Though we had technically moved into the hotel's high season, the clerk offered us a room at the more reasonable shoulder season rate, no doubt because of a lighter-than-expected guest load that evening. The rate included parking in the lot behind the hotel and an expanded continental breakfast served on the mezzanine.

There is a restaurant attached but we opted to check out Ashland's other offerings. We had wine and nibbles at a place along the river called Enothèque (roughly "wine library"), then moved on to Amuse (with the French pronunciation "ah-MOOZ") for dinner. Both were easy strolls from the hotel.

Upon retiring for the evening, we found the room to be pleasantly quiet, perhaps owing more to the advanced age of our fellow guests than the soundproofing, but whatever the reason, we got a very good night's sleep and arose refreshed and ready to continue our travels.

Even if historic hotels aren't your specific taste, I highly recommend visiting the lobby of the Ashland Springs and taking a look around. I'm sure you'll find the side trip well worthwhile!

Photos by Carl Dombek
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LAKE OSWEGO, OR: Zeppo Italian Restaurant

2010-06-14T07:30:00.000-07:00

Sunday was beautiful in the Portland area -- a perfect day for dining al fresco. Zeppo in Lake Oswego proved to be just the place!

We started to walk through Zeppo's sidewalk dining area on the way to our originally-intended destination on the water but were drawn in by the smells coming from the kitchen and the sunshine-swathed tables on the sidewalk.

Thus enchanted, we took a table and were we glad we did!

By sheer luck, we arrived with a few minutes of the afternoon "social hour" remaining. "Social hour" at Zeppo runs from 2 - 6 p.m, and again from 8 p.m. to close. During those rather generous time frames, Zeppo offers a variety of items for the very reasonable price of $4.50 per item. House wines are also available and are equally affordable.

We each ordered the house red -- a flavorful blend of Italian wines that proved to be fuller than the average Chianti but a fair bit lighter than a Montepulciano. Just the thing for a warm spring afternoon. As an accompaniment, we were served a basket of house-made bread with black olives baked in. Delicious!

For nibbles, we ordered a Caesar salad and a Caprese salad; chicken, mushroom and rigatoni with red sauce; and chicken and vegetable skewer with a mango glaze. Because this was our first visit, I asked our server if she thought that would be sufficient. She replied that, because the plates were smaller than the entree size but not exactly tiny, she thought we'd be satisfied. She was right.

All the items were yummy indeed. The balsamic vinegar chosen for the Caprese salad had a bit more sweetness than many I've tasted, but this went well with the red-ripe tomatoes and generous basil leaves. The Caesar salad was a standard Caesar, well-presented.

A request for a second round of bread brought a white Italian bread infused with fresh Rosemary. Different than the first, but no less delightful.

The chicken, mushroom and rigatoni with red sauce provided the "Italian food fix" my wife had been craving, while the chicken and vegetable skewer with a mango glaze gave us just the right amount of sweetness with which to end our meal.

Service was just right: always available, but never intrusive.

Perhaps it was the combination of good food, wine, and long-delayed sunshine, but we left Zeppo feeling quite satisfied indeed.

RECOMMENDATION: A "must" on a sunny afternoon; worth trying any time.

PORTLAND: Hash

2010-06-11T13:10:00.008-07:00

One rainy Sunday (yes, there are sunny Sundays in Portland!), our daughter led my wife and me to Hash. What a delightful discovery!

Hash is the type of small, neighborhood restaurant for which Portland is famous. Located in the Sellwood area of southeast Portland, it offers a small menu of creative items that are deliciously prepared. Both small plates and large plates are offered, making it a great place whether you're in the mood for a full meal or simply a snack.

Our daughter and I started with what they called "Candied Ginger Bellinis" which, upon further questioning, our server admitted was simply sparkling wine infused with candied ginger and not a true Bellini made with fruit juice. Regardless, they were delicious! The ginger, despite being candied, offset some of the sweetness of the sparkling wine, added notes of its own, and gave a pleasant, gingery bite at the back of the throat. I was hard to stop at just one.

Daughter ordered the restaurant's namesake: hash. It would more accurately be described as "deconstructed" hash, as shredded corned beef was placed atop a mound of potatoes laced with onions, green peppers, and spices. It was excellent, if not exactly what one would expect from the name.

My wife had the roasted beet salad with baby spinach, pearl onions, chevre, and sherry vinaigrette. Also delicious! (I opted to sample their items instead of ordering my own entree.) The food is made to order, which meant a bit of a wait, but the freshness of the fare made it well worthwhile.

The service is best described as casual. We were seated and provided with menus promptly; orders for both drinks and food were taken quickly as well. It appeared that many of the staff knew many of the regular customers and spent a fair bit of time chatting with them, but responded promptly with a simple wave.

Hash is open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday and is located at 8728 SE 17th Avenue.

RECOMMENDATION: Worth seeking out.

Photos by Carl Dombek
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PORTLAND: Arleta Library Bakery Cafe

2010-06-09T13:53:00.007-07:00

An absolutely delightful breakfast place on the east side of Portland.

Featured on Food Network's Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives, the Arleta Library Bakery Cafe is well worth the visit. Located on the east side of town, it offers a limited menu of primarily breakfast items. But what it does, it does extremely well.

My wife and I started with what the menu lists as a "Hunk of Coffee Cake" which, on the day of our visit, was banana-bourbon. It was perfectly prepared, with moist bananas on the bottom and a hint of bourbon throughout.

Although the special of the day was savory pancakes with corn, chives, and zucchini-poblano chili salsa and balsamic vinegar, we opted for the biscuits and gravy. Not that it was at all pedestrian! These were sweet potato biscuits with a rosemary sausage gravy that was perhaps the lightest gravy we've ever tasted. As an extra bonus, each biscuit was topped with a thin slice of pork tenderloin for added flavor and texture.

Coffee was local favorite Stumptown. A second cop of the rich, black brew made an excellent dessert.

The Arleta Library Bakery Cafe is open from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, and 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. It's a little hard to find at 5513 SE 72nd @ Harold, and the only parking available is street parking but trust me, it's worth the effort!

Photos by Carl Dombek
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BLAINE, WA: Semiahmoo Resort

2010-06-09T12:55:00.011-07:00

I lived in the Seattle area when this former salmon cannery was turned into a resort in 1987. I never made it up to this corner of the state until now, and I'm sorry I waited so long.

Located about 30 minutes north of Bellingham, Washington, the Semiahmoo Resort has a lot to offer - not least of which are stunning views of Semiahmoo Bay and White Rock, British Columbia on the other side of the water.

While Semiahmoo is truly a "destination" resort, they clearly don't take that fact for granted. Service at the Inn where we stayed is excellent, from the bell person (ours was a young lady) to the desk staff that happily found me a great rate for a last-minute stay. Other staff members, from the servers in the restaurant to the attendants in the pro shop, were equally top-notch. What they apparently do best is make guests feel at home. It certainly worked for us.

Despite the great rate we received for our one night at the Inn, we were given an upgraded room with a wood-burning fireplace! When we entered, we found a gentleman from maintenance lighting a log for us so we could enjoy our surroundings immediately. The bed was comfy indeed, and the bath was equipped with a large soaking tub and high-end amenities.

Our room had a courtyard view; rooms with ocean views are also available. Some have balconies, while others do not. Ask what's available and choose they type that most suits your liking.

After a pleasant evening sipping wine by the fire, then sleeping late the next morning, we headed to the restaurant for a late breakfast (served until 11:30) overlooking the water. Afterward we walked the beach, taking in the sights, sounds, and smells, including an array of local art.

Because the property is on the water at the end of Semiahmoo Spit between Drayton Harbor and Semiahmoo Bay, weather is mild year-round. The Inn periodically offers "winemaker dinners" which pair wines from the featured winery with each course. Though we didn't time our visit to coincide with one of these gastronomic events, there was still plenty to enjoy.

It's also a wonderful place to retreat from the city, play a little golf, visit a spa, eat a good meal, and take in the scenery. We can't wait to return!

Photos by Carl Dombek
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SEATTLE: Voula's Offshore Cafe

2010-06-08T15:54:00.004-07:00

Just because a restaurant is featured on television, it does not necessarily mean it's worth your time. In my estimation, that's true of Voula's Offshore Cafe'.

We sought out this local place because it was featured on Food Network's Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. It makes the most of that 15 minutes of fame, with the Food Network logo now gracing its sign and "Guy's Favorites" featured on the menus.

Maybe it's because we went our own way instead of Guy's, but we weren't impressed by either the food or the service.

We went about 10 a.m. on a Tuesday morning, well after the breakfast rush. The place still had a friendly vibe and a distinct buzz, but not too crazy. Our waitress brought menus and offered coffee as soon as we chose our seats (which is what you do at Voula's) and popped back soon after to take our order.

Though there were fewer than 20 people in the place, it took far too long to get our breakfasts...and when they came, we were underwhelmed.

My breakfast -- two eggs, three Greek sausages, hashbrowns, and toast -- was OK, but no better than that. The hash browns -- a huge portion, crispy on the outside, steaming on the inside -- were the star. Scrambled eggs were done in far too much butter. The Greek "sausages" were actually slices of sausage that tasted far too much like the scrapple I'd sampled while in the south.

My wife had the Naked Hobo, a conglomeration of hash browns, eggs, cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, and onions. Despite the ingredients, it was almost devoid of flavor and was also done with far too much butter.

Despite it being located in Seattle, the coffee was an off-brand I'd never tasted before and don't care to again. It was pretty close to what my wife and I call "church coffee" -- the dishwater-like brew served in many church basements and foyers.

Finally, there was the lackluster service. Perhaps our waitress had spent all her energy on the breakfast rush and nothing left for us, but it was so poor I only left a 15% tip -- well below my standard 20% tip, especially at breakfast.

RECOMMENDATION: Don't go out of your way to find Voula's; there are many better breakfast places in Seattle.

Photos by Carl Dombek
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WAIKIKI: No Longer a Tropical Paradise

2010-05-26T09:00:00.009-07:00

Waikiki has morphed. Instead of being the tropical paradise it once was, today it's a tropical playground.

When I made my first trip to Oahu more than 20 years ago, Waikiki was well established as the hub of tourist activity. Still, the charm and heritage of the islands was obvious: merchants greeted you with a hearty "Aloha!" and thanked you with "Mahalo!" There was still a fair bit of open space including a lush lawn that drew the eye from Kalakaua Avenue all the way up to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel - the famous "Pink Palace." Both foot and vehicular traffic were, well, friendlier. And while the area had its share of activity, it wouldn't have been termed "teeming."

Today, there's very little open space left. From the street, pedestrians have to wend their way through a strip mall before they're able to see the Pink Palace. Sidewalks everywhere are crowded at virtually all hours, and one can hardly walk a block without being accosted by people pitching time shares and vacation clubs. Negotiate the sidewalks along Kalakaua Avenue and flyers for every type of establishment imaginable will be thrust at you: from gun ranges where one can fire an Uzi to seedier shops featuring activities unsavory. And sadly, the area has its share of vagrants whose quiet queries of "spare change?" somehow manage to rise above the din.

While Kalakaua Avenue has long been the center of the area's commerce, today its offerings aren't very different from Chicago's Magnificent Mile or Beverly Hills' Rodeo Drive. High-end shops - like those below - are abundant, though unlike the Mag Mile or Rodeo Drive, they rub shoulders with local lei stands, a few homegrown merchants, and the ubiquitous ABC Stores that carry a variety of food and drink, tsotskes and sundries.

But the ocean is still blue, the sand is still warm, and the sun still tans, so the area still has much going for it.

With so much to do in such a small area, one really doesn't need a car. Most activities are within easy walking distance, and there are often free shuttles to the more far-flung offerings. As well, taxi cabs abound if you have a yearning to visit something less tourist-centric, such as the Iolani Palace.

When staying in Waikiki, packaged tours - which I usually avoid like the plague - can have advantages over doing it yourself. Take snorkeling Hanauma Bay as an example.

On Wednesday morning, we drove to the bay and, although we thought our 10:30 arrival would be early enough, we were wrong; the parking lot was already full. Grumbling as I turned the car around, I saw tour buses being allowed in. Their passengers would soon be doing what I would not.

Returning to the hotel, I booked a round trip van excursion to the bay. For $15, they picked me up and dropped me off at the hotel and provided a snorkel, mask and fins. Renting this same gear inside the park would cost $13, so for $2 I was guaranteed entrance to the park, didn't have to hassle with driving and parking, and didn't have to worry about getting the rental car wet and/or sandy. A bargain!

And as discussed in a previous post, the area still has havens from the craziness. You just have to look for them. Know your own taste, go with your gut, and follow your nose; just don't be lead by it!

Aloha! And Mahalo for visiting TravelPro.

WAIKIKI: The Outrigger Reef on the Beach

2010-05-25T12:00:00.019-07:00

Needing an respite from the cool and damp of a delayed Pacific Northwest spring, my wife and I booked a last-minute trip to Hawaii and a stay at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach. Outrigger Hotels provided us with two nights' accommodations so we could experience this newly-refurbished hotel for ourselves.

The last time I visited the Outrigger Reef on the Beach was easily six or seven years ago -- well before the facility's three-year "extreme makeover" that started in 2006. That project, completed in late 2009, has given the hotel the title of "newest and best" of Outrigger's properties, according to Nancy Daniels, Outrigger’s director of public relations.

It’s easy to see why.

The $110 million Reef project touched virtually every part of the property and actually resulted in a 28 % reduction in the number of guest rooms – from 883 to 639 rooms. The old rooms were gutted, walls were torn down and bathrooms were overhauled to create brand new spacious guestrooms and suites like ours (at right). But unlike The Savoy hotel in London which has been closed for two years while undergoing its refurbishment (see earlier post), the Outrigger Reef on the Beach remained open for the entire time of the project.

“It was definitely a challenge,” acknowledges Daniels, “but the final result is spectacular!” The rebuilt rooms (one can hardly say “refurbished”) are characterized by elegant island-themed interiors and modern, high-end amenities.

The Outrigger Reef on the Beach brings the modern amenities we all want without sacrificing the islands’ cultural heritage. Amenities include complimentary high-speed Internet access and free long-distance phone calls, an upgraded fitness center, a renovated pool, an on-site rental car desk, and other “creature comforts.”

Of course the views are unchanged and continue to be as awe-inspiring as ever. Waikiki Beach (at left) is legendary, as is Diamond Head in the distance. If you go to Honolulu, spend a morning or afternoon climbing Diamond Head…and bring your camera. The view from the top is spectacular!

Honoring Hawaii’s Heritage

True to its native Hawaiian roots, Outrigger wanted the property to reflect the islands, their people, Hawaii’s voyaging history and its cultural heritage. Visitors see the first evidence of that as they approach. The hotel’s new entry was inspired by a traditional canoe longhouse and is now home to the Ho`aloha, a koa wood canoe originally crafted more than a century ago and painstakingly restored.

Thanks to partnerships with Bishop Museum, Mission Houses Museum, and private collectors, a number of cultural treasures are on-site, including handcrafted lobby showcases displaying museum-quality artifacts. There are some 80 wooden canoe paddles and other examples of island craftsmanship displayed throughout the property. Images of Pacific Basin canoes, landscaping of native Hawaiian plants, and a new sitting room area with a library of Hawaii literature round out the experience.

Among the facets that haven’t changed are the Reef’s cultural activities and programs such as hula dancing, ukulele lessons, lei-making, demonstrations by cultural teachers and master artisans, walking tours, and other experiences centering on Hawaii’s rich heritage. Twice weekly, a Hawaiian Vow Renewal is held on the beach. This culturally rich ceremony draws upon an ancient Hawaiian custom, Hoao Paa, in which a man and woman were bound in lasting union.

Dining and Dancing

While there are plenty of restaurants of all types within easy walking distance of the hotel (it is Waikiki after all), the Outrigger Reef on the Beach also offers the Kani Ka Pila Grille. During the day, it’s a casual poolside restaurant. In the evening, it offers free island entertainment featuring some of Hawaii’s greatest island musicians, new local talent, and world-renowned island artists. One night during our visit, the musicians played a version of "Wonderful World" that would have made Iz Kamakawiwo’ole proud.

The Service

Notably, although the Outrigger Reef on the Beach is economical, it is not an "economy" property. As you can tell from the photos, the property is physically appealing. And I can attest to the quality of the service: from the bell stand, valet, front desk, and activities desk to the food and beverage service, it was always excellent.

Thanks to its economical rates, its ready access to Waikiki beach and neighboring hot spots, the Outrigger Reef on the Beach is a hopping hotel indeed, popular with a wide range of guests -- from young singles and young families to Boomers and retirees -- who want to visit Hawaii without breaking the bank.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view larger size.

Oahu, Hawaii for Foodies

2010-05-23T14:38:00.015-07:00

When my wife and I took off for a last-minute trip to Hawaii, we'd planned to get some sun, see a few sights, and take one significant side-trip. It didn't turn out as planned, but what did develop was absolutely delightful. It's amazing how things can change for the better when you're open to it.

We'd been to Oahu, the home of Honolulu and Waikiki, several times. We'd already seen the typical tourist sights and made the historical stops including Pearl Harbor, the Iolani Palace, Queen Emma's Summer Palace, and others.

We'd done the drive around the island, been to the famous Dole Pineapple Plantation, seen Turtle Bay, the big waves on the North Shore, visited the Polynesian Cultural Center, eaten at the Crouching Lion.

We'd planned to do a few things on Oahu, then take a day-long side trip to the Big Island to see the volcanoes. Until we looked into the cost more closely and realized it would be a $1,000 day. Too rich for our blood.

What to do?

The list of "must-dos" was short: snorkeling Hanauma Bay for me, getting some sun for the both of us.

Then we had our "a-ha" moment: this would be our Oahu foodies tour!

Over the years, numerous chain restaurants have taken up residence on the island, homogenizing the dining dynamic. But why commit culinary heresy by coming to the islands only to eat at chains including Tony Roma's, The Cheesecake Factory, P.F. Changs, Denny's or McDonald's when local gems can still be unearthed?

Think globally, eat locally.

On the way from the airport to our hotel, we stopped at one such establishment: Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch, & Crab. Choy, a native son of Hawaii, has a reputation as a chef -- or perhaps more accurately, had a great reputation. The last time we ate at this restaurant, the offerings were inventive, creatively prepared and presented. The "plate lunch" my wife and I shared had great variety but this time, the menu offered very little that was out of the ordinary. The most creative plate lunch was the Loco Moco - a beef patty served over rice with brown gravy on top and a side of macaroni salad. We passed. And while the preparation of the burger and salad we ordered was adequate, it's no longer anything special. RECOMMENDATION: Pass on Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch, & Crab.

Arriving at our hotel, we asked a number of locals where they'd recommend we eat while in town. We stayed away from the hotel's activities desk, opting instead to talk to people like the valet, shopkeepers along Kalakaua Avenue, and others who have no vested interest in steering patrons to one place over another. Our list grew quickly.

One of the first places mentioned to us was one of the first we tried. For Monday's breakfast, we sought out Leonard's Bakery. Located on Kapahulu Avenue a few miles from Waikiki, Leonard's is a local landmark famous for its malasadas -- deep-fried pockets of wonder very similar to the beignets served at New Orleans' Cafe du Monde, except that malasadas are covered in granulated sugar instead of powdered sugar. They are completely and utterly addictive, so I provide this warning: order carefully. You will end up eating every one you buy; there's apparently no such thing as restraint when it comes to Leonard's malasadas.. RECOMMENDATION: Leonard's malasadas are an absolute "must-try."

One of the challenges we encountered to eating locally was that the best local finds were nowhere near Waikiki. That meant, unless we wanted to get the car out and drive, we were limited to those eateries within walking distance of the hotel.

Not that it's all bad.

That night's dinner consisted of pupus at Roy's Hawaiian Fusion kitty-corner from our hotel. Roy's is, of course, a chain with 33 restaurants around the world. James Beard Award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi opened the first Roy's in Honolulu, Hawaii in 1988. And while every restaurant has a "core" menu, each also presents offerings focusing on fresh, local ingredients.

Taking a table on the patio near the bar, we enjoyed a gazpacho made with watermelon in addition to the traditional tomato, cucumber, and spices; a spicy tuna roll; and spicy veal potstickers with glasses of white wine and champagne before repairing to our room for the evening. RECOMMENDATION: Roy's food is consistently good, but ask about the local items (and sit outside) for the best experience.

Tuesday morning, we sought out Nico's at Pier 38. Featured on Food Network's Diners, Drive-ins & Dives, Nico's is a local favorite that earned us a thumbs-up from the bellman, who knew we'd been to Leonard's the day before. "You're hitting all the good places," he said.

Getting to Nico's requires a fair bit of commitment. You have to follow the Nimitz Highway well past downtown - a busy roadway during the morning rush hour - then turn into the industrial area near the pier.

Nico's is little more than a kitchen with a counter and a cash register; diners eat at picnic tables on the screened-in lanai, which holds about 100 people. I don't know why they bother to ask, "For here or to go?" as the food is served in the same Styrofoam containers regardless of your answer. But it's fresh, it's fast, and it's quite good. Coffee, as you might expect, was 100% Kona. I had a traditional breakfast of scrambled eggs with a scoop of steamed rice and four small slices of Portuguese sausage, while my wife opted for the hearty fried rice. We could easily have taken half of each for later, had we had a way to store and reheat it. RECOMMENDATION: Nico's is an absolute "must-try" if you're a breakfast lover.

After Nico's, we decided to drive around the island. Around Waihiawa, we decided it was time for lunch and fully expected to eat some place too pedestrian to mention.

Happily, we were wrong.

Following the beacon of the local Golden Arches, we passed a promising-looking storefront restaurant called Maui Mike's, which boasted "Fire-Roasted Chicken."

My wife and I got a half-chicken with fries and two dipping sauces, which we ate at the picnic area of the nearby pineapple plantation. The chicken was delicious: crispy, salty, smoky skin on the outside with succulent, juicy meat on the inside. Maui Mike's offers a number of sides in addition to Mike's Fries: white rice, BBQ baked beans, sweet corn, and green beans. They also offer shredded chicken sandwiches. Maui Mike's is a one-note opera, but it's a note they play extremely well. RECOMMENDATION: If you're in the area, check out Maui Mike's.

Wednesday's breakfast was a "buy one, get one" deal at a local watering hole off Kalakaua Avenue that also serves food. It was fresh, fast, and cheap, but nothing worth writing about or going out of your way to find...

That afternoon, my wife and I went separate ways. She opted for a book and the beach, while I went snorkeling in Hanauma Bay.

Reconvening later that evening, we headed to the famous Duke's for nibbles. Though part of a chain of restaurants in Hawaii and California, Duke's has the feel and the food of a local spot. However, when we arrived and checked out the menus of several restaurants including Duke's, the pupus on the menu at sister restaurant Hula Grill looked much more inventive. I recalled that a woman on the shuttle to Hanauma Bay had remarked on the Hula Grill's excellent breakfasts, so in we went.

We enjoyed Kalua pork potstickers (which I described to a group of four fellow former Midwesterners as "Asian pierogies"), crab and macadamia nut wontons, and Polynesian ceviche. Fresh, well-prepared, and tasty, we washed them down with mai tais made with POG instead of the more traditional lime juice (POG is a blend of pineapple, orange and guava juice popular in the islands) and a pina colada with a couple shots of bitters (a la Trader Vic's). Happy hour made the already-reasonable prices even more so. RECOMMENDATION: Worth a visit, especially during happy hour.

On Thursday, we drove the Pali Highway through the rain and ended up in Kailua around lunch time. We stopped by Boots & Kimo's, a breakfast and brunch place known locally for serving pancakes with an outrageous macadamia nut sauce. However, as we weren't in the mood for breakfast, we moved on to a local place called Pinky's that advertised pupus. The kalua pig nachos and the plate of sauteed mushrooms were OK, but really far too big to be pupus; they were more like table-sized appetizers. RECOMMENDATION: Not bad, but not noteworthy either. Don't go out of your way.

On Thursday evening, our last evening in Hawaii, we sipped cocktails on the patio at the Halekulani Hotel while listening to a trio play Hawaiian tunes. The mai tais at the Halekulani were prepared traditionally, using lime juice (as opposed to POG) and were delicious. The hotel also offers an impressive variety of wines (including Piper Heidsieck Blue Top champagne) by the glass. What a way to watch a Hawaiian sunset! RECOMMENDATION: A MUST!

From there, we repaired to the local branch of BLT Steak -- again, a chain but one where the restaurants use local ingredients to create local favorites.

Nibbles at BLT Steak started with chicken liver pate, compliments of the chef. We followed that with beef carpaccio; roasted beet salad with endives, walnuts, and Mauna Kea goat cheese; oysters from British Columbia. Yorkshire pudding and a chocolate roll were also included, both compliments of the chef. We enjoyed an Elk Cove Pinot Gris and Astoria Prosecco with our food. RECOMMENDATION: Also A MUST!

We ended our evening at the Lewers Lounge at the Halekulani, listening to a jazz duo while sipping Benedictine and sparkling wine. The Lewers Lounge is one of the few places in Hawaii with a dress code: no shorts, no tank tops, no flip flops. How perfectly civilized!

Several other restaurants were recommended which we didn't get to try for a variety f reasons:

Side Street Inn. Down a crowded side street in an industrial area, parking was impossible.
Rainbow Drive-In. Local food including plate lunches and other delicacies offered. A small, crowded parking lot, zero street parking, and a tight timetable kept us from going in.
Hank's Haute Dogs. Featured on Triple D and recommended by several locals, hot dogs -- no matter how "haute" -- didn't appeal to us.

Oahu's food culture includes food served from trucks. Formerly infamous "roach coaches," many of these vehicles haven't moved in months, if not years. Now, they're roadside fixtures, often sitting next to plastic picnic tables and chairs. Many boast bona fide parking lots. The most popular include Fumi’s Kahuku Shrimp, Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck, and Romy’s Kahuku Prawns & Shrimp, which is housed in a red shack instead of a truck.

In a macadamia nut shell, there's plenty of good, original food to be had. Often, though not always, you have to get away from Waikiki to get it.

Bon appetit!

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images.

HAWAIIAN AIRLINES: Aloha Lost

2010-05-17T13:43:00.008-07:00

When I booked a last-minute trip to Hawaii on Hawaiian Airlines, I was initially excited. I'd flown Hawaiian some years ago and found the spirit of aloha apparent as soon as one got on board. Not any more.

Based on our recent flight, their current marketing statement, "You're not a passenger, you're a guest" is nothing more than hype. While the flight attendants used to greet passengers with a warm "Aloha!" and make friendly conversation with passengers during the flight, they're no different today than any other airline.

They hurry through their duties, renting headphones and other audio/visual equipment, distributing food and drink, then disappearing behind curtains to gossip or read their pulp novels until it's time to land.

It's all very sad.

Their previous positioning statement, conveying the impression that your trip to the islands began the moment you came aboard, used to be pretty accurate. The F/As were friendly, the in-cabin audio system played Hawaiian music to get you in an island frame of mind, and other facets of the flight were equally authentic.

Now, the food is unremarkable and anything but Hawaiian. The complimentary meal on our flight over was an enchilada; how Hawaiian is that? (ANSWER: it's not!) Our return flight featured a choice of the enchilada or a turkey sandwich. The airline offers "upgraded" meals for a fee, but neither proffered entree on our flights had anything to do with the islands. Disappointing.

Finally, there's the reservation process itself. I booked our flights two days before departure and as a result could not select my seats at the time of booking; instead, I had to wait until arriving at the airport to learn where my wife and I would be sitting. However, I couldn't book my seats home either, and no one could answer what I thought was a basic question: How far in advance to I have to book my flight to choose my own seats?

On the flight home, "upgraded" seats in either exit rows or on bulkheads were offered for $25 each. As the fee included early boarding (giving us early access to increasingly-scarce overhead storage space), extra legroom and free (though extremely uncomfortable) headsets, I opted for "exit row" seats only to find upon boarding that the seats were on a bulkhead. Not what I asked for or what I purchased, and another in a series of disappointments.

The bottom line, then, is this: If Hawaiian goes where you want to go when you want to go at a competitive price, fine. Otherwise, they're no different than any other U.S. airline, so don't go out of your way to fly them. And as I've been saying for some time, the U.S. airline industry is an industry begging to be re-regulated.

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Lessons from the Road

2010-05-12T17:14:00.004-07:00

I've learned a number of lessons during our ongoing road trip. Here are a few I thought I'd share.

The trunk of a Camry can hold a lot more than you'd think.
Sleeping so late that you miss the hotel's included breakfast is probably a fair trade.
A binder clip (or a clothes pin if you're old-school) do a wonderful job of keeping the curtains closed and the sun out (see point above).
It usually takes both packets of in-room coffee to make anything that even approaches drinkable brew.
A nail clipper is a great way to put a notch in the coffee packet so it can be easily opened.
A cotton ball stuffed into the water intake can often stop hotel irons from spitting.
Canadians may be polite, but drivers in Vancouver are among the rudest I've ever encountered (NYC and LA included!)
Laundries that offer "fluff 'n' fold" service are a lifesaver!

I'll add to this list as I think of more lessons from the road. Please check back!

LAKE OSWEGO, OR: Terrace Kitchen

2010-05-10T08:24:00.002-07:00

The dining scene in the Portland area is legendary - but you don't have to dodge the Max downtown or fight for parking in The Pearl to indulge; there are great options all over.

We almost literally stumbled upon one such an option after an errand in downtown Lake Oswego.

Located on the second floor of a completely unremarkable building a block off the main street of downtown Lake Oswego, Terrace Kitchen is a hidden gem. It's a 100-seat restaurant run by a couple who are both James Beard award winners, and it shows!

The menu is small -- one side of a standard sheet of paper -- but changes frequently as the owners have chosen to feature "seasonal Northwest cuisine." As many businesses in this area are wont to do, Terrace Kitchen focuses exclusively on local products: wine from the Columbia Valley, chowder made with Northwest seafood, cheeses from the Willamette Valley, locally-raised chicken, lamb, pork, beef, and rabbit. If it's not in season, if it's not fresh, if it's not local, it's not on the menu.

My wife and I shared a "TK salad" of local lettuce, apples, blue cheese, and hazelnuts; a Spring pea soup with mint cream; perfectly-prepared, succulent roasted pork loin with sweet potatoes, roasted pepper and corn sauce, chard, and cabbage. For dessert, we enjoyed a plate of two local cheeses: a brie and a Basque-style queso oveja.

It was a difficult choice to pass up other items including roasted lamb chops, rosemary loin of beef, cedar-planked salmon, wild cod, and rabbit fricassee. I suspect, though, that they would each have been as wonderful as the items we did enjoy: nothing short of magical.

As usual, my wife and I shared everything -- which was fine for all the courses except the entree. Terrace Kitchen's entree was perfectly portioned for one, not the gargantuan proportions that many American restaurants currently serve.

Making the evening even more special, the restaurant features live, local jazz on Friday and Saturday nights. The musicians who play at Terrace Kitchen volunteer their time and talent and play only for tips "to help sustain Oregon jazz," as the menu puts it. Sustainability, in whatever incarnation, is a big deal here in the Pacific Northwest.

Prices were surprisingly reasonable, especially given the quality of the food and the excellent service. Our four-course meal, including two glasses of Di Stefano Sauvignon Blanc each, was less than $85. With tips for our server and the musicians, our total was $110 -- a bargain for an evening of fine dining and great music!

In addition to creative cuisine, Terrace Kitchen also features art from local artists, cooking classes, and other special events. We highly recommend Terrace Kitchen, and you may well see us there, as we will definitely be back.

BELLEVUE, WA: The Hyatt Regency

2010-05-09T16:27:00.000-07:00

I watched this Hyatt Regency being built when I lived in the Seattle area a number of years ago but, being a local, never actually stayed there. Now I realize what I was missing. The Hyatt Regency is a great property with great service at a great location.

Downtown Bellevue is more a business and commercial area than a tourist destination but, whatever your reason for being there, you'll find the Hyatt Regency's location quite convenient. It's very close to shopping, art galleries, Microsoft Visitors Center, a number of fine restaurants and many familiar chains. The location also offers easy access to the I-405 freeway as well as the S.R. 520 and I-90 floating bridges that lead across Lake Washington to Seattle. It's also within easy driving distance of Chateau Ste. Michele and other local wineries.

Service is excellent; every staff member we encountered was pleasant, polite, and helpful. Our room in the Cascade Tower was very nice and equipped with all the amenities we expect today including flat-screen TV, work station, hair dryer, iron and ironing board, and bathrobes. Our room faced east; many west-facing rooms offer views of Lake Washington and the Seattle skyline beyond.

The Cascade Tower (to the north) was finished in the late '80s and was the property's first building. Rooms in this tower have obviously been kept up-to-date, but soundproofing between rooms could be better. If that's a particular sensitivity, request a room in the brand-new Olympic Tower to the south.

The hotel also has a large conference center which can mean lots of activity, as was the case during the weekend we stayed there. Despite the large number of squealing teenagers involved in a dance workshop and competition, the hotel was very good at containing the cacophony to the lobby and the meeting floors.

Garage self-parking is quite reasonable at $16 per week night; parking is complimentary on weekends. Valet parking is also available.

During our weekend stay, we enjoyed dining at two nearby restaurants. Daniel's Broiler on the 21st floor of the adjoining office tower is a great place to watch the sun set while enjoying drinks and nibbles or dinner. Dinner is fairly pricey, though the food is very good. On the ground floor, across the driveway from the hotel entrance, is Joey's Bellevue. Food at Joey's is also very good though the atmosphere is more casual than at Daniel's (in fact, it was downright frenetic in the lounge during happy hour), and offers more modest pricing. Unfortunately the hotel's on-site restaurant, The Twisted Cork, is currently only open for breakfast.

All things considered, I would say the Hyatt Regency Bellevue's Four-Diamond designation is well-deserved. We were certainly not disappointed!

VANCOUVER, BC: The Hyatt Regency

2010-05-09T15:47:00.003-07:00

The Hyatt Regency in Vancouver was actually my second choice because my first choice had no rooms available. As it turned out, I now have a new favourite hotel in Vancouver!

A lovely hotel in the heart of downtown, the Hyatt Regency is close to many of the city's most popular attractions. Located on Burrard Street, the waterfront and the trendy Robson Street area are just steps away, and Coal Harbour and Stanley Park just short drives up the road. But the hotel itself and the service guests receive are far more important than even a stellar location.

The Hyatt Regency does not disappoint.

Rooms are well-appointed, and many have city views. The property offers the usual amenities including a business center, fitness room, concierge service, and The Gallery Lounge and the Mosaic Bar & Grille on the second floor. It is adjacent to one of the city's indoor malls, making it very convenient to grab a snack, do some shopping, or buy that item you forgot to pack and simply can't do without.

When booking online, Hyatt offers the option of choosing an upgraded room for a modest additional fee on a space-available basis. I've used this option several times in various cities and have never been disappointed. In Vancouver, an extra $12 a night garnered us a "superior" room on the 31st floor with a great view of the city and a peek view of the water beyond. And the AAA rate included either a buffet or menu breakfast at the Mosaic Bar and Grille.

One drawback is the parking. Be sure to take the "hotel rate" if you're visiting during the week. On our first night I didn't, and parking the car from 3:00 p.m. on our day of arrival until about noon the next day (21 hours) cost a whopping $49! When I brought it to the attention of Mike, the hotel's manager, he immediately provided free parking for our second day, then charged us the hotel rate of $30 for our final day. That was but one example of the hotel's excellent customer service!

The Hyatt Regency Vancouver has a AAA Four-Diamond rating and, based on our experience, it is well-deserved. We will definitely return.

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Best of the road

2010-05-09T09:17:00.005-07:00

By their nature, "best of" lists are always limited and subjective. That said, I present our personal evaluations of the "best of" our hotel experiences in our recent and ongoing road trip.

BATHROBES: Spindrift Inn/Monterey, CA and Oxford Hotel/Bend, OR (tie)

TOWELS: Hiltons (the flagship brand, not other associated brands like Hilton Garden Inns)

MINIBAR: None. While many hotels still offer minibars, none was really outstanding. In addition, they are fading in popularity, as hotels can provide better selection and freshness (and have better control over access) at lobby bars or pantries.

BED: Spindrift Inn/Monterey, CA (sorry Westin; your Heavenly Beds are great, but the Spindrift Inn's bed edges you out!)

HAIRDRYERS: Spindrift Inn/Monterey, CA and Westins (tie) These hotels provide the powerful Andis 1850 watt blow dryers.)

VIEW:
Bay - Spindrift Inn/Monterey, CA
Mountains - Hilton/Ft. Collins
Ocean - Inn at Spanish Head/Lincoln City, OR

IN-ROOM COFFEE: Oxford Hotel/Bend, OR

AMENITIES: Ritz-Carlton/Lake Las Vegas, NV (now closed) Bulgari amenities provided a true touch of class.

BUSINESS CENTER: Hilton/Ft. Collins, CO This facility was spacious, provided all the usual business machines at modest per-use costs, and offered free internet access.

We'll be updating this post as we find new "bests" so stay tuned!

BEND, OR: Oxford Hotel

2010-05-07T18:47:00.005-07:00

My wife and I happened upon the Oxford Hotel while visiting friends who live nearby. We were initially delighted to find this new upscale offering in Bend.

Recently opened in January, the Oxford Hotel has all the benefits of being new, including lack of wear and tear on the physical plant or furnishings, and having most everything in working order.

Beautifully designed in Pacific Northwest contemporary -- lots of dark woods, deep earth tones -- the Oxford is also designed with sustainability in mind. Being the Pacific Northwest, one would expect no less. Floors are often cork, counter tops are made from concrete or recycled glass. Even the duvet cover is made from recycled plastic bottles, though they're so luxe you'd never know it were it not for the card next to the bed telling you about it.

Flat screen TVs offer satellite TV (being Bend, that's very helpful) plus two in-house channels that turn the TV into either a virtual fireplace or a virtual aquarium. The workspace boasts numerous inputs and outlets, providing plenty of places to charge that laptop, cell phones, MP3 players, and the other devices we carry today. There are also connections that allow one to display the output from a laptop on the TV.

The Oxford's in-room coffee is clearly the best I've ever experienced. Freshly-ground coffee, a hot pot, and French press are provided, along with detailed instructions for the uninitiated.

In-room dining is offered with food prepared by 10 Below, the restaurant in the hotel basement. Our dinner on our first night was a tartare flight of lomi-lomi salmon, spicy tuna, and steak tartare, accompanied by crispy nem rolls served with lettuce, mint, and dipping sauces. Incredible! Breakfast is also served at 10 Below, with items ranging from traditional breakfast fare to several more inventive offerings.

The restaurant had a decent, though not huge, wine list. Oregon Pinot Noirs top the list, with proffered Cabernets from California, and whites from California and New Zealand.

Most notably, wine prices are very reasonable. We enjoyed a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc we buy at retail from time to time. While between $ 15 - 17 at retail, 10 Below offered it at $24 a bottle -- far below the all-too-common 100% restaurant mark-up, which would have put the price in the low $30 range.

The hotel also offers a complimentary guest laundry; a gym with a sauna, steam room, and whirlpool; and in-room internet access. There's no business center, but a laptop is available for use in the lobby for those who don't travel with their own.

While the Oxford is lovely, an important test of any business is how they handle matters when things go wrong. Partly because it's a new property, there were some hiccups.

On our first morning, I turned the single-level shower control to full hot but the water never got warm. That was especially odd because the separate tub and the sink both had hot water while the shower did not. The concierge (there is no "front desk"; only concierge attendants) offered us access to the shower in a nearby room, and maintenance looked into the matter during the day. It turned out that the controller had been installed backwards, so "hot" was actually "cold" and vice versa. Problem solved, with some minor inconvenience.

Parking arrangements at the Oxford are unusual and were the source of a second hiccup. The hotel offers valet parking for $10 a night, but one can self-park in the garage next door for $5 a day. However, guests who self-park must pay at a box in the garage; the cost of parking is not added to your hotel folio. While parking arrangements were discussed upon check-in, the payment nuances didn't register with me and the result was a $32 parking ticket.

Housekeeping is also an area that needs work. Upon returning from our day visiting friends, we found that the bed had been made and fresh towels left but the waste and recycling bins had not been emptied, the coffee press and the bathroom sink had not been cleaned, and the dirty coffee cups and drinking glasses had not been replaced. A call to the night concierge brought a fresh press and coffee cups, along with an apology.

Considering that there were now three problem areas, in my judgment the hotel should have done more than simply proffer an apology.

The next morning, I brought these matters to the attention of the concierge who had checked us in and asked that the hotel provide us with breakfast in consideration for these inconveniences. To my surprise, the concierge became defensive and began contesting my recollection of what was said about the parking arrangements at check-in.

When I restated my request for the modest goodwill gesture, she said she'd "have to check with management." A higher-end property such as the Oxford ought to empower its front-of-house people to make such minor decisions.

Shortly thereafter, I spoke directly to a manager. He too apologized and offered to try to have the parking ticket adjusted but I declined, opting not to cede control of the ticket and risk the consequences of having a parking ticket unpaid. No other action was offered at that time.

After our departure, I sent a detailed account of our experience to the hotel's corporate offices and asked for a response. My e-mail was forwarded to the hotel and I was contacted by both the assistant general manager and the manager I'd spoken to at the hotel. The manager again apologized, noting that he hadn't realized when we spoke that our issues included not only the parking mishap but the others as well.

He was very conciliatory, assured me that these things should not have happened, and offered to "take good care of us" the next time we visit the Oxford Hotel. However, that we after the fact. Buying us breakfast before we left (or giving us a bottle of wine to take with us) would have been a very simple and inexpensive goodwill gesture and would have gone a long way toward mending fences. Had not the hotel responded so promptly and courteously, and had not the manager been so sincere in his effort to make amends, I might still be on the fence about a return visit to the Oxford. As it stands, I do plan to give the Oxford another try next time I return to Bend.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Actually Downshifting

2010-05-06T09:28:00.007-07:00

Just ending our first full week in the Pacific Northwest, we find ourselves straddling the line between being visitors and residents.

Over the last several days in Portland, we've eaten at some good restaurants, strolled along the Willamette River, and driven through more neighborhoods than one can shake a stick at. In the back of our minds -- no, actually, TOP of mind -- is the question of whether we want to make the Rose City our home.

We also had to find a mechanic, and have taken the car in for service twice: once for routine maintenance and once when we thought the A/C was dying - just in time for warmer weather (though "warm" in Portland isn't usually all that bad).

About three days in, we hit the wall. Looking for a place to live, whether an apartment or a city, is emotionally draining. So on Thursday we decided to shift into "vacation" mode until Monday, when we'll head to Seattle and resume this Battle of the 'Burbs.

On Thursday, we took the short drive to Cannon Beach. Haystack Rock was as lovely as we remembered it.

From there we drove to Astoria, then returned to Portland along U.S. 30., which parallels the Columbia River. Not as scenic a view as we'd hoped, with only the occasional glimpse of the river. But the sun -- and the mountains -- were out, lifting our spirits and reminding us why we've always said we'd return to the Pacific Northwest.

On Friday, we visited Oregon City and rode the 130-foot Municipal Elevator (built to connect the lower neighborhood with the neighborhood on the bluff above) It is the only outdoor municipal elevator in the U.S. and one of only four in the world. While it overlooks the Willamette River and offers some spectacular panoramas, seeing Willamette Falls requires a 3/4 mile walk along the bluff (provided the sidewalk is open; when we were there, it was closed for repairs) or a short drive along Highway 99W. We drove.

From the falls, it was a short drive to the End of the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center. Unfortunately, the center has recently closed due to lack of funding. Docents, however, have created a modest museum which contains some of the more noteworthy items from the center.

After a short visit to the museum, we drove to Multnomah Falls about 25 miles east of Portland to take in some of its scenic beauty and to enjoy the sunshine and temperatures in the mid-60s.

On the whole, a couple of restorative days spent enjoying Portland. Next week, we'll head to Seattle and see if we can decide which city we want to make our next home...

Photo by Carl Dombek
Click on photo to view full-size image

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Winding Down the Wine Road

2010-05-05T07:20:00.005-07:00

It seems that the days of complimentary wine tasting will soon be a distant memory. Still, there are ways to get the most out of your vinicultural ventures.

During our ongoing road trip, we've visited wineries from the central coast of California to British Columbia. Sadly, it seems that most wineries are either unwilling or unable to offer complimentary wine tasting as they did in years past.

Certainly, there are advantages to this approach beyond the obvious financial benefits to the wineries. For one, it caused us be more deliberate and to ask ourselves whether we really have an interest in any given winery's offerings. For another, it tends to keep winebibbers in check; if you're paying for each tasting, you're less likely to overindulge than you would be if everything was free.

Our experiences ran the gamut, from those rare establishments that still offered free pours to one that charged $15 (Oregon's Adelsheim Winery) for a tasting of their everyday offerings. At least three (including the venerable Fess Parker winery) included a "souvenir" glass with the price of the tasting. Some would deduct the price of the tasting from any wine you chose to purchase, which I believe is the fairest approach overall.

In our observation, the standard price for those that charged was about $10 per tasting. However, all the wineries we visited that did charge allowed us to share tastings, which not only saved a few dollars but enabled us to visit more wineries before our taste buds gave out and everything started tasting the same.

Most of the tastings consisted of five to six wines, though many offered an additional sample or two of wines that weren't on the tasting menu, which made things more interesting and made the tasting fee seem like a better value.

The most noteworthy tasting we've experienced thus far (we're certainly not done!) was at Chateau Ste. Michelle, just outside Seattle. Chateau Ste. Michelle charges $10 for a basic tasting but offers tastings of its reserve wines for $15. What's noteworthy about this is that the reserve tasting is conducted at a table in the winery's library, in groups of limited size. This allows patrons to have some meaningful interaction with the host/pourer, rather that the stock speech one can get when bellying up to the tasting bar during busy times ("This is only the third year we've made this particular varietal, but it did win a gold medal last year at Paso Robles...")

So choose carefully, drink responsibly, and enjoy. Salut!

VICTORIA, BC: Hotel Grand Pacific

2010-05-01T15:00:00.006-07:00

My wife and I discovered the Hotel Grand Pacific in 2002 when we were searching for a hotel on Victoria's Inner Harbour that was less dear than the venerable Empress. We were delighted then, and pleased to see it has retained much of its charm eight years on.

The Hotel Grand Pacific sits on the south shore of the Inner Harbour, just west of the Parliament, which houses the provincial government of British Columbia. That means the views from the harbor side and east side of the hotel are incredible, and that the property is just a short walk from all that Victoria has to offer.

When we first visited eight years ago we were struck by the hotel's beauty: traditional, but also up-to-date. Today, little has changed, and that's primarily a positive.

The property has been well-maintained and still looks new and fresh, from the lobby to the bar and restaurant to the rooms themselves. Service continues to be excellent, with hotel staff eager to see to it that your stay is pleasant.

Rooms range from standard rooms to one-bedroom suites. Suites are sumptuous and spacious and, especially during the shoulder season, can be booked for downright reasonable rates with additional discounts available for AAA/CAA members. There is, however, one facet worth noting. Guests who book a "city view" room or suite should be sure they're placed on the 4th floor or higher; otherwise, the "view" will be of the apartments across the street, not the more expansive view available from the higher floors.

Two other minor caveats: while well-maintained, the fixtures in the guest room baths have not been updated since the hotel was built, giving a slightly dated feel. Finally, the hotel's business center is only open until 4 p.m., so travelers who need that facility should plan accordingly.

In all, the Hotel Grand Pacific is a grand place to make your home base for your visit to Victoria.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view full-size images

LINCOLN CITY, OR: The Inn at Spanish Head

2010-05-01T14:38:00.006-07:00

Having lived in the Pacific Northwest, my wife and I were both familiar with the Inn at Spanish Head, but neither of us had stayed here before. This was our chance!

The Inn at Spanish Head overlooks the Pacific Ocean from atop a bluff a few miles south of "downtown" Lincoln City, Oregon. Every one of its 120 rooms faces the ocean, so there isn't a bad view in the place.

The service was excellent -- from check-in to the service in the bar to room service.

There are three types of rooms at the Inn: standard hotel-type room, studio apartments, and one-bedroom suites. However, the Inn at Spanish Head is not a traditional hotel. Rather, the rooms are actually condo units which the owners allow the Inn to rent out when they're not using them.

This means a couple of things.

Each unit is decorated to the taste of the owner, resulting in a wide range of accommodations. Accordingly, guests should ask to see the exact room they'll be renting before committing.

Our room -- 422, a studio -- is among the nicer units, according to at least one front desk clerk. However, while most guests did seem to like it, others didn't care for it, so it's truly a matter of personal taste.

It also means that some owners may allow the Inn to offer greater discounts to fill their specific unit, so don't be shy about asking if there are rooms available at a better rate if you don't like the rate you're initially offered. Depending on how full the Inn is, you may be pleasantly surprised.

Finally, regardless of which room you select, there's the view, the beach, and the crashing surf. The on-site bar and restaurant are convenient, fairly priced, and offer a good selection of food and beverage. but if they don't appeal, it's a short drive along U.S. 101 to the north or south to areas that offer more choices.

In any case, if you love the ocean, The Inn at Spanish Head is lodging you must experience!

Photos by Carl Dombek
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PORTLAND, OR: The Westin Hotel

2010-04-28T20:37:00.001-07:00

I'm not absolutely sure I could describe a "typical" Westin, but I'm 100% certain the Westin Portland is definitely not typical. That could be a positive or a negative, depending on your perspective.

One facet of this hotel that is typical is the service; it was outstanding in all respects. From the bellman who greeted us and hauled our mountain of luggage to our top-floor room to the front desk clerk who swiftly switched us to another room when we realized the room next door was inhabited by a crying baby to the staff in the on-site restaurant, everyone was top-notch.

The hotel itself was a bit of a surprise.

My first impression was that the property was a "historic" hotel. Its style, smaller guest room size (even on the penthouse floor) and thin walls gave the impression that Westin had done a creditable job of rehabilitating and saving an older building.

Not so.

A front desk clerk told me the hotel was designed with the older style in mind but was actually built in 1999 which, in my estimation, makes the shortcomings inexcusable -- particularly the thin walls that enabled us to hear the next guest's TV program well into the evening. And given that the hotel is slightly more than a decade old, the small room size is far less acceptable than if it had been a rehabilitated structure.

Further, while the current decor supports the historic feel -- with fleurs-de-lis on the wallpaper, for example -- the hotel plans to refurbish its rooms in an ultra-contemporary style, with purples and yellows dominating the new color scheme.

Although the new style is not to my taste, my greater concern is that the other drawbacks won't be addressed and future guests will find a hotel with great service but small rooms, too much noise, and not enough of the "typical" Westin charm.

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: International Update

2010-04-28T07:53:00.003-07:00

A big part of the value of being a downshifter is not being tied to a specific schedule. The downside is that updates don't come as regularly as clockwork.

After a delightful weekend in Portland, Oregon - which we spent sightseeing, wine tasting, and visiting two of our adult children - my wife and I made for the border and arrived in Vancouver, BC on Monday afternoon.

This city is delightfully cosmopolitan: international, vibrant, and (as anyone who saw the winter Olympics coverage can attest) quite beautiful.

Monday evening's dinner with friends was followed by a gorgeous Tuesday morning. We took advantage of the weather and walked about five kilometers to Coal Harbour, along the waterfront, past the Olympic torch (which is being made a permament fixture) then back to our hotel before heading to Langley for more wine tasting. Good call, as the weather had begun to deteriorate slightly. Fortunately, we were in the car during some squalls and a short bout of hail. Later, dinner in North Vancouver yielded some really good Weinerschnitzel and beautiful views of the city.

This morning, we decided to spend a third night in Vancouver, with side trips to Whistler and Victoria distinct possibilities, depending on the weather. Lots to see and do, and we're simply not ready to leave. And if we didn't have commitments in Seattle this weekend, I'm not at all sure we ever would...

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Downtime

2010-04-23T08:26:00.005-07:00

After Tuesday's lengthy road trip, we enjoyed some relaxing time with dear friends.

The purpose of our trip to Bend was to see a lovely couple who had been friends with my late mother-in-law since their grammar school and high school days together. While our friends live in Redmond, we stayed in Bend because of the availability of accommodations. This gave us the opportunity to explore a bit of Bend's downtown, and to see some of Oregon's high desert while driving to Redmond.

After a lovely day spent catching up and enjoying each other's company followed by a second night in Bend, we headed for the Willamette Valley and wine tasting, then on to the Pacific Coast.

Driving through central Oregon in the spring is beautiful and offers more pleasant driving conditions than winter (as most of the snow is gone) or summer (as most of the crowds have not yet arrived).

Wine tasting is equally pleasant for the same reasons: more favorable weather and smaller crowds. The downside is that many smaller wineries don't open their tasting rooms until Memorial Day, meaning more advance planning is necessary. Nonetheless, we visited three wineries on the way and added six bottles to our collection. Room in the trunk of the Camry is becoming increasingly scarce.

Arriving on the coast, we opted for the Inn at Spanish Bay. Both my wife and I have looked longingly at this establishment for years, but never actually stayed here. This time, it's different. It's lovely, and is making for an excellent base from which to explore the Oregon coast.

On Friday morning, we visited the Tillamook Creamery (home of Tillamook cheese) and ran into an old family friend from Seattle in the gift shop. It's a small world indeed.

Friday evening, while we were enjoying a glass of wine in the hotel bar, the waitress spotted Orca whales breaching about 100 yards offshore and let all the patrons know; what a treat to see these magnificent creatures so close to shore.

Only a foretaste of things to come, I'm sure.

Tomorrow, it's on to Portland for more family time. Please stay tuned; more commentary and photos will follow.

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Back on the Road

2010-04-19T21:12:00.003-07:00

After spending the weekend with family in Sacramento, Tuesday found us back on the road.

The weekend was spent in Sacramento and environs, visiting with family and old friends, and generally unwinding. Tuesday, we embarked on what would be our longest day of driving as we headed toward Bend, Oregon to see more friends of long standing.

We'd planned to visit Crater Lake but it turns out it's too early in the season. In addition, it was raining -- hard; not the usual Pacific Northwest mist -- so we picniced in the car and passed on lava fields, the museum of logging, and other potential attractions.

Arriving in Bend, we took the tact that our fathers did when checking out hotels and asked to see the room first. We were ever so glad we did. The first hotel, which was on the banks of the Deschutes River, just didn't cut it, so we made for downtown and a new hotel called the Oxford Hotel.

I will have a more detailed review soon, but for the moment suffice to say it was absolutely wonderful -- an oasis.

Visiting friends of long-standing today, then embarking for Oregon's wine country. Stay tuned.

DOWNSHIFTERS' DIARY: Weekend Update

2010-04-18T08:42:00.004-07:00

Although we could happily have stayed longer at the Spindrift Inn in Monterrey, the weekend was almost upon us and family awaited in Sacramento.

After a delightful in-room breakfast on Friday morning, it was back on the road toward our destination of Sacramento. First, though, a detour for a quick visit to Yosemite.

One cannot do justice to Yosemite in an afternoon, a day, or even a couple of days, but we decided to seize the opportunity, even if time was short.

The grandeur of this natural wonder is incomparable! From El Capitan to Half-Dome, the various falls (Bridal Veil, Horsetail, and Yosemite), all had our mouths agape. And the wonderful smells of pine and eucalyptus in the spring -- amazing!

We headed to the Ahwanee Lodge for a late lunch and took in grandeur of a man-made nature. The lodge, built in the early '20s, is a work of art. Its hand-hewn log beams, Native American paintings and design are completely captivating. And the views from the patio surely must only hint at the views from the guest rooms, particularly those on the higher floors. Even if you're not willing or able to spend the night, when visiting Yosemite one must definitely see the Ahwanee Lodge.

WESTLAKE VILLAGE, CA: The Hyatt

2010-04-18T08:42:00.001-07:00

I'd driven past the Hyatt in Westlake Village for years, whenever I visited my sister who lives in the area, but stayed there for the first time during our current trip. It was a delight.

Before booking at the Hyatt, I compared rates with several other nearby hotels including a nearby Radisson and Residence Inn (we'd stayed at both before), at least two Hampton Inns, and the Four Seasons. The Hyatt had a better rate than any.

We reserved a king room and were very pleased.

The hotel has ample meeting space and the open areas are more like a resort or conference center than a basic hotel, meaning slightly longer walks to the room. But given how pleasant and inviting the open spaces are, that's hardly a negative.

Our room -- a standard king -- was very nice. It was spacious enough to accommodate a couch, desk with work area, and provide plenty of space generally. The room has all the amenities today's travelers expect: Internet access, a flat-screen TV, in-room iron and board, and other standard offerings.

The service was also excellent, from check-in abd bell service to housekeeping to the bartender/server in the on-site sports bar Knuckles, where we enjoyed nibbles and a nightcap. There is also a restaurant on the premises, but the hotel is also convenient to a number of local establishments including some within easy walking distance and many more just a short drive away.

Valet parking is available for a fee, but self-parking is available at no charge.

I highly recommend the Hyatt at Westlake Village. Next time we return to the area, we will absolutely return!